A Quick Spring/Summer Dress

Burda 11/08 #118

I will be the first to admit that I am not super trendy.  Although I like keeping up with the trends and staying fairly current with my style, I am not a slave to the trends.  One spring/summer fashion trend that I saw that I liked and knew I could work into my own style was the trend of brights.  This is a nice trend in that if you're bold, you can wear brights head to toe and if you're not into that look, a simple bright belt or purse or other small accessory can easily update a look. 

Keeping up with new season's trends is good idea, especially if you're buying fabric off season for the next season.  When I saw the aqua and blue striped knit fabric at the Fix this winter, I knew it would make a great piece for spring/summer.

Considering the stripes on the fabric, I knew just the pattern to use, too.  From Burda 11/08 #118:  While this model is a few years old, the style lines are still good, but finding the fabric was the problem.  I have the right fabric now!

The actual construction of the dress was easy - there are only five pieces.  It was a bit time consuming because of all the matching of the stripes on the sleeves, raglan seams and side seams.  Careful pinning and basting ensured that each seam was correct.  That means that each seam was basically sewn twice because I basted before running it through the serger.  It was definitely worth it, though and if you're making something like this in a solid or print then you'll have less worry about lining up a pattern.  One thing I did do differently was to make a Jalie-style neck finish rather than a traditional binding (like a quilt binding) as Burda recommended.  In knits it is much easier to finish the edges the Jalie way.

I only made a couple of fitting adjustments to the dress.  One, tapering out a size or so to have extra room in the thigh area.  I could have worn it as drafted, but didn't want a dress that was too clingy, especially since this is a knit.  Second, I ended up taking a little out of shoulder seam after trying it on - there is a seam over the center of the shoulder and there was a bit too much fabric there, which didn't hug my shoulders nicely.  Taking out an extra 1/2" total on both sleeves did the job.

I'm really happy with the dress, although I probably could have picked the stripe placement a little better.  I should have cut the neck and shoulders with the really, really wide aqua stripe.  That way, I wouldn't have those oddball stripes at the top of the shoulders that don't match in color; it would have been solid aqua there.  I forgot that in order for the shoulder pieces to go up and over the shoulder, they were drafted longer, and the aqua stripe I chose was a bit narrow.   At any rate, this is not enough for me to not like the dress - I like it a lot and will keep it.

It is a great dress and I can wear it styled like the magazine photo with a black turtleneck and tights, by itself with a cardigan, or just without the cardigan.  With this fabric, when the weather is warmer, I can go white accessories or even another bright accessory just for fun.

Parting Shot:  Fabric Goodies.  More stuff from Fabric.com for spring/summer items.  You'll be seeing some of this stuff pretty soon!

Flash and Trash - Part XI

Fun With Flowers!

Now that the vest is assembled, I can get to one of the more fun parts of the whole project, the embellishments.  To start, I'll need to attach all the fake flowers.  Usually I make my own flowers with  my own templates, but I had all these silk flowers in my studio that weren't being used and the colors worked with the fringe and the velvet so that's what I'm using.  I've pinned the flowers in place with the help of the dress form.  This was nice because I was able to back up and see if I liked the arrangment of all the flowers and leaves.

Before attaching the flowers, I had to decide which threads would look right with which flowers, as I'm going to do a little free motion embroidery/thread painting to attach and enhance the flowers all at the same time.  This is fun because I get to pull out all the metallic and sparkly threads that I have and then find bobbin threads to go with them.  The smaller flowers only needed one color of thread, but some of the larger flowers have up to four different kinds of thread on them. This is only a small selection of the threads I've chosen:

Once the flowers were pinned in place, I dropped the feed dogs on my sewing machine, loaded up the thread and bobbin and attached the flowers. 

I concentrated mostly on the centers, leaving the edges free.

This is very easy to do and works up pretty quickly.

Lastly, there are butterflies, one on the front and one on the back.  These were leftover from a project a many years back which had a butterfly print.  I've had them stored with the silk flowers and funky fibers and never used them.  They even still had the Steam-a-Seam2 backing still on them, so I fused them to the vest and embellished them.  I used a gold glittery thread and outlined all the veins in the wings, and then added a black body in black metallic thread.

Once all the flowers are done, my favorite part will be next:  the beads and sequins!

Parting Shot:  New Glasses.   My daughter got new glasses today.  I noticed a few weeks ago that she was having trouble seeing the television and she admitted to not being able to see well.  After an eye appointment and finding out that her eyes had really deteriorated quite a bit in a 9 month period, we were able to get new glasses that she likes and that improve her eyesight.

Make The Look

One Pattern, Many Looks

Anthropologie once again has supplied this week's Make The Look.  While trolling through their website, I saw several knit tops with a very similar look.  Check these out, there are a few more, but I'm posting these:

Swing Pocket V-neck:

Far Reaching Tee:

Tie Back Tank:

Silene Tee:

Florid Garland Tank:

Aurora Tank:

If you like this look, then you're in luck, because McCall's 6165 is your pattern!  This is not a look I'd pick for myself, being a bit on the short side, and proportions being what they are.  This might not work for every body shape, but pair these tops with something slim on the bottom - shorts, pants, whatever, and interesting necklace and you've got a quick summer look.  You could also layer the tops as shown on the McCall's envelope art.

This pattern has it all - all the sleeve and neck variations you need to create any one of the Anthro tops.  All you need to add is some creativity in the fabric selection and embellishment departments.  You could add solid bands, screen printing around the neck, tie dye your own fabric, add hot fix studs or rhinestones or just made a solid top. 

As far as fabric suggestions, all of the original tops are knits, and McCall's also suggest knits such as jersey and cotton knits.  Anthro has already provided quite a bit of inspiration, so I won't suggest specific knits to you.  Good places online for knits are:  Gorgeous Fabrics, FabricMart, and Fabric.com, Denver Fabrics. 

All photos from respective websites with links included.

Parting Shot:  Almost Gone.  Our snow is almost gone. With another week of warm temperatures it might be completely gone from the front yard!

Wear Test: Fail

But With Two Happy Endings

I made myself a new black skirt about a month ago, loved the idea and pretty much liked the style up until the moment I tried it on.  It fit, the workmanship was nice, but for some reason it wasn't working for me.  I'm not sure what it was about it, but I just did not connect with the skirt for some reason.  Now, I know you think that's a bit insane, connecting with your clothes and all, but this piece just did not strike me as right.  If I'm going to have something in my wardrobe and go to the trouble of making it, I should love it, not be all "meh" about it.  So, it was a fail for me.

Fortunately, I have a daughter who now about my size and she gets first pick of any clothing that I'm getting rid of.  She was delighted to have the skirt.  She's always needing black skirts for choir, handbells and flute performances, so I was thrilled to give to her.

That left me still needing a black skirt to replace skirts I was getting rid of.  I pulled out Vogue 2925, now out of print, I think.  I've made every piece in this wardrobe and have made the skirt twice, once in black with the matching jacket and once in brown, for which I intended to make the matching jacket but it didn't happen.  Now that I'm not teaching high school, I don't need the suits and may or may not ever make the jacket!  Anyway . . . . I've made the skirt for the third time, again in black.  This skirt is actually a circle skirt, but is nice because it is fitted through the waist and hip and then flares out.

I made this one, the easy way without a lining, a very narrow hem (serged and turned once), and with a petersham waist facing.  I had some real petersham that I had been saving for a project and this turned out to be it.  The fabric isn't anything exciting, just some poly blend suiting, but I know that this fabric will wear like iron and withstand the abuse of being washed and dried at home.  I expect this skirt to last as bit longer than the last black one, as I know when I was teaching I wore the skirt at least once a week. 

So, although we had a fail, we also have two happy endings.  My daughter has a new skirt and so do I!

Parting Shot:  Deceptively Cute.  Isn't he so cute?!?  Yes, of course, he's sleeping.  Most you know by now that he can act like toddler and can has a habit of chewing up anything plastic.  I prefer to think of him sleeping like this, though!

A Sporty Khaki Jacket - Burda 9/08 #139

Finished!

With an early start yesterday morning by checking the sleeve length before my son went to school, I was able to finish up his jacket.  I think it looks pretty good and he's still happy with just the pockets on the front and not all the other details. 

I will have to say, this is a slim cut jacket, and my son isn't exactly a slim cut.  He's not fat, but he's a solid kid and I think I could have added a little around the body and it would have been fine.  That said, he can still wear it this spring and summer to school and church and be just fine. 

The finishing was pretty easy, especially since I was able to do almost all the stitching, including the hems and lining hems on the machine. 

Although this jacket is officially the first project of spring/summer,  I do have one more winter/transitional piece to finish.  It is a remake of something I made recently because it didn't pass the wear test and was passed on to my daughter.  I'll show you on Monday.  After that, some fun stuff!

Parting Shot:  New Knitting.  I've had this yellow yarn for quite some time and every project I tried to start with it didn't quit work.  I think I've finally found a project for it - a scarf.  Not very original, but I think it will be a great shot of color for this spring and next winter's outfits when I need a little color.  I'm knitting this pattern from Knitpicks.

Flash and Trash - Part VIII

Construction!  Yeah!

Now that I've actually got all the components, the construction is underway!  Actually it takes very little time to put the vest together.  It only has four darts, shoulder seams, side seams and the peplum to attach.  Not hard at all.  The green pieces only add a few extra seams and they're pretty small.

So, thus far, this is what we have, plus a lining, not quite put together, but getting there:

Remember that this is tribute piece, so there are elements here that I probably wouldn't have normally put in the piece (the green part), but when you're trying to convey the essence and spirit of someone else, that's what you do.

Once this is is done, then I can begin the real fun - the flower and butterfly embellishments.  Getting to pick out all the sparkly threads and stitching the flowers will be fun and even better than that, I'll get to pull out the beads and sequins, too!  Let the fun begin . . .

Parting Shot:  Boxed Wellie.  I can't put anything down without Wellie investigating.  This box is just his size, but unfortunately is intended to be shipped elsewhere!  I know cats have survived being shipping in boxes by mistake, but that's one mistake I hope not to make.

Flash and Trash - Part VII

More Quilting!

Now that the main quilting is done, I realized that I wasn't quite done with the quilting part.  The green portion had to be quilted, too!  Sigh.  There were only six pieces, so that was nice!

As you can see, they're done, trimmed and ready for assembly.

Maybe now I can get to the construction!  I know I keep saying that and then I find a few more things I need to make or do before I can get to the construction.  Some projects are like that - you think you only have a few more steps to go and then you keep finding one or two more things that need to be done.  That's how it seem to work for me - and then a "quick" project turns into a week long project!   Tell me I'm not alone on this one!

Parting Shot:  Fabric Love.  My cats love, love, love the velvet fabric for F&T.  It has been hard keeping them away from it.  I'm not sure what it is about it, probably the warm, fuzzy, pile surface, but Wellie is very happy on it.

A Sporty Khaki Jacket - Burda 9/08, #139

Most of the Construction Done!

I've have less busy week this week and have most of the construction on the jacket finished.  I've got the entire shell done, plus started adding the collar:

I bought lining yesterday and was able to assemble the entire lining today:

That leaves me with finishing the collar, attaching the lining, hems and buttonholes/buttons. Not too much work, but I'd better get moving on this one, as I've promised him he could wear it on Sunday! I think that between tomorrow and Friday that can happen, but we'll see.

Parting Shot:  Momma's Boy.  Wellie has taken to sitting with me in the evenings.  Last night he was happy just snuggle up close and take a nap.

Make the Look

Anthropologie Wispy Cirrus Blouse

There's a lot to be inspired by at Anthro, and this blouse really says spring and Easter to me.  The combination of lace and contrast lining is really nice and if you're making your own, you can make it in any color combination you'd like!

The pattern you're going to need to recreate this blouse is New Look 6945.  You will need to do some modifications, but they're pretty easy.  First, to make it like the original, you'll need to make those sleeves into half sleeves;  of course, I can see this with the cap sleeves, too! 

Second, you'll need to add a waist seam and peplum.  This is fairly easy.  You will need to do a quick tissue fit to check the position of the waist, and adjust for your torso length.  Once the waist is in the right place, mark it on the pattern and then add a 5/8" seam allowance.  Fold the pattern (or cut it) on the new cutting line and you can cut out the bodice.  For the peplum, you'll need a rectangle - as long as you'd like the peplum and about 2 to 2 1/2 times the circumference of the bodice at the waist.  If your lace has a nice scalloped edge, then you won't even have to make a hem in the lace!  You can then gather the peplum and attach to the bodice once the bodice is assembled and then finish the front edges with buttons and buttonholes.

For fabrics, venice or guipure lace is probably the best choice if you want to make something exactly like the original, but maybe not the most readily available or cost effective choice depending on where you live.  I did find some nice venice laces at HouseFabric but they're pretty expensive, Lace Heaven also has lace yardage, but still pricey (look under the tab labeled "fabric" for the yardage).  With lace starting at $40 per yard, now you know part of the reason the original has a price tag of $118 USD.  Looking further, I did find some really nice alternatives.   I found this nice cotton European style lace at GorgeousFabrics, although it isn't exactly like the original, it would be a lovely look and is a great price!

Emma One Sock also has this lace, less traditional and less frilly, but would be great with a contrast lining and is a reasonable price:

For the lining part, bastiste or light weight cottons or any sort of lining fabric (silks or poly) would be suitable.  Keep the scraps, because you can then cover buttons for an exact match - the original has covered buttons, too.  You'll need some additional narrow lace to trim the sleeves and neckline, and the belt is just matching grosgrain ribbon (like the original) or you could make your own from leftover lining.

All photos from respective websites with links.

Parting Shot:  Copycat.  Now look who is in the linen closet!  Kiwi has never done that, but I'm pretty sure I know who she learned that trick from.

Flash and Trash - Part VI

Muslin Time

Now that I've got some components made, it is almost time for construction.  Before I actually get to the construction part, I need make a muslin because I'm not going to use the pattern as is.  That shouldn't be a surprise, as for this sort of thing I'm always doing my own thing!

I am using a pattern that I've made before, Burda 2/08, #116.  You saw it in the photos in a previous post, the red vest I was using to pin all the flowers to for placement ideas.  One change I'm making is to change the peplum as drafted to a peplum made from two circles.   This will really give the peplum fullness and flounce.  That part I really don't need a muslin for.  The part I need a muslin for is the bra part.  Cathy is known for wearing a green one over her clothes as a joke at some fashion shows, so I wanted to incorporate that into vest, too.  That's why I chose the green thread for the quilting, in case you wondered, as it was a pretty unlikely partner for the orange/red/yellow velvet.   I have made plenty of bras, too, as stand alone garments, but for this I need to incorporate it into the vest.  What I've done is to take my standard pattern, make it a bit larger and then play with where it needs to fit into the vest to be in the right place on the body.  Once it was in place, I drew the seamline, cut beyond the seamline for seam allowance and then put the two pieces together.

The side in the left of the photo was the first try, but the second try to the right of the photo is much better, so I went with that half when transferring the changes to the pattern.

After that, it was just adjusting and playing with the muslin a bit to get the look I wanted.  With that part done, the muslin came apart to be transferred over to my second set of vest pattern pieces (no need to destroy the original traced pieces).  All I had to do then was to make sure that the shoulder seams were the same width on the back as the front and scoop out the back neck a bit for a nicer look with the narrow "straps".   A little truing up of the lines and the pattern was all done.

Now, to get the green pieces quilted, and then I'll be ready to put the whole thing together!

Parting Shot:  It's Back.  This is why I don't put winter gear away until the first couple of weeks of April.

ColleenP. and LoisK. :  Yes, I live with a network guy, too.  We survived his getting his CCIE (on the first try of the lab, too), and yes, we have a *real* network rack in the basement that he salvaged from somewhere and brought home which is now full of equipment.

Flash and Trash - Part V

The Flash and Trash Part

Now that the quilting is done (thankfully, a vest has few pieces!), I can work on something a little more fun:  another embellishment component, the fringe.  The fringe *is* the flash and trash of this garment - it is what Cathy Franks calls the flash and trash - lots of yarns, fibers, serger trimmings, etc.  So, out of my collections came the stuff for the fringe.

One of the major components of the fringe is yarn.  I have quit a bit of yarn that has been given to me and that has been left over from projects I've knitted.  Most of the leftovers is sock yarn and I really didn't want to make some mish-mosh socks using up all the leftover bits anyway. (VickiW, you should recognize that bright green yarn in the top of the picture.) Between that and some stuff in the right colors from my funky fiber collection and some shiny serger trimmings, I had enough stuff for fringe.  To make the fringe, I simply wound all the yarn and stuff around a DVD case and cut through the yarn strands to get even lengths.

I then laid it all out trying to distribute the colors evenly, but randomly.  I know that doesn't make sense, but I didn't want big clumps of orange or purple with no interesting fibers or shiny ones mixed in.  I guess you could call that "selective randomness" or some such crazy thing, but I just wanted a nice distribution without really trying too hard or counting numbers of strands.

Once the fringe looked pretty much how I wanted it, I stitched a section of it at a time to a piece of twill tape, using a zigzag stitch on the sewing machine.  The twill tape is necessary to hold the fringe together during the construction process and will be trimmed away once the seams are complete. 

The whole process was actually pretty quick and easy, and now there are about 2 or 3 yards of fringe ready for the construction process. 

Once the construction of the vest is done, I can add the flowers - that promises to be fun, because I can pull out all my shiny, sparkly threads!

Parting Shot:  Epic Battle.  Serious military strategy is going on here.  Since the computers are networked, playing these sorts of games against one anther is easy.  Not to mention time consuming, but at least they're busy!