Ride 'Em Cowboy - Photo Shoot

Happy Trails To You!

The outfit is complete, and that means photo shoot time! My son can be a complete camera ham, so while I don't have really great shots of the outfit (I'll do those later for show entries), I do have some interesting ones of him wearing it. Take a look.

Howdy Do, M'am.

Look Ma, fancy duds with stars and a bull!


I even got fancy boots, just fer show:

Don't you know I'm the sheriff in these here parts?

Keeping law and order with my trusty pistol. Maybe.

I'm going to blast those varmints out of there!

One tough cowboy:

Yea-Haw! (Mom is done with her photo shoot!)

Just wait till unleash him on the runway. It should be a real fun show in Nashua in November.

Parting Shot. Take Over. Look who thinks she owns the place now. Kiwi has taken to lounging in the prized spot on the ironing board. (The cats tend to think that I iron make a warm spot for them to lie down.)

Ride 'Em Cowboy - Vest - Part VI

Labels!

You know when I'm getting to the posts about the labels that I'm getting pretty close to being done with a project! Once the labels are in, then all I need to do is the photo shoot. Look for a post sometime this week with the final product and photo shoot!

Because I don't have access to a photocopier anymore to run the fabric through to print my labels, I bought some Bubble Jet Set. BJS is a liquid product that makes the printing from an inkjet printer permanent. It is a fixative of sorts. To use it, first, the fabric to be printed is soaked in the BJS and hung to dry.

Once it is dry, the fabric is ironed onto sheets of freezer paper, which are then trimmed to 8.5"x11" - standard paper size. The freezer paper helps the fabric go through the printer.

At this point, the paper and fabric is ready to be sent through the printer. I usually just type up several labels per sheet in Microsoft Word. I try to pick fonts that are easy to read, as some just don't print well on fabric and the labels must clearly have the title of the work, my name and contact information. Below you can see the fabric just as it came out of the printer:

The fabric is then peeled off of the freezer paper and washed with a detergent to remove any excess BJS. There is a companion product, Bubble Jet Set Rinse, but Synthrapol (another type of detergent) also works well, and I already had that on hand for dyeing fabric and clothing. The new labels are hung to dry and once dry are ready to use.

Here's what the labels look like:

Parting Shot: The Suit. As promised here are a few shots of me wearing the Prada inspired suit - with and without the jacket.

Prada Inspired Suit - The Top

I've had a few inquiries concerning the turtleneck top I modeled yesterday in the photos. Yes, I did make the top to go with the suit, and it seems to work well as a pair with the jacket when worn with jeans (some of you picked up on that fact and pointed it out, thanks!).

It is made of the winter white stretch velvet I picked up at Fabric Fix a week or two ago. It took less than a yard, and at only $10.00 per yard, cheaper and closer to what I wanted than anything RTW. It needs a camisole, but that's a very easy fix!

I used to BWOF 8/08 #118 as a starting point:


I saw the version Cidell made, which was really cute and liked the basic elements: the turtleneck, the front and back yokes and the front pleats. To modify it to my tastes and to look more like the higher necked blouses/tops shown with the Prada lace tops (view the collection here) I changed the neckline by making it smaller and making the collar smaller in circumference, and made it as a top instead of a dress/tunic. To make the neckline work, I stole a few pattern pieces from one of my daughter's patterns, which also happens to fit me in the largest size. (There are a few perks to being petite!).

This was the right idea, but not quite right yet:

I had plenty of leftover fabric, so I knew I could cut another collar and yoke if the first one didn't work. The collar needed to be smaller around and taller, and the neckline still needed to be higher in the front to make it work. The second try was much better and the rest of the top went together easily.

I used the coverstitch machine for the hems, and got a good result by basting first for a guideline and because I wasn't sure how the machine would deal with the slippery stretch velvet.

I might actually make this pattern again in a different fabric and draft (or steal!) a pattern piece for a long sleeve for the winter. Come to think of it, I need to replace both my standard white and standard black turtlenecks this year and this just might work.

Q/A: Kennis asked, "I am inspired to make something mixing knit, woven and lace fabrics, but I don't really see any fabric vendors that have these fabrics in the same color. How do you manage to get the same color fabrics?" Well, mostly by luck, actually. The brown suiting I've had for at least five years, bought on clearance at Jo-ann's most likely. The brown/gold metallic lace was bought on eBay somewhere in the past, three to five years ago or so (maybe longer!) and the brown knit I bought within the last month at Jo-ann's. They had several shades of brown knit to chose from and I bought several cuts and figured what I didn't use for the jacket, I'd make a turtleneck for my daughter to wear to school with her brown/pink/cream/teal wardrobe.

Parting Shot: Sephora goodies. I took the afternoon off yesterday and went down to Salem, NH (our nearest Sephora and 10 minutes from where my husband works) to have lunch with my husband and shop with my birthday gift card. It was fun to be able to get some new fun things and a few samples to try too: a few new eyeliners, eyeshadow primer, new lipstick and a trial mascara among other things.

Sewing Tools/Supplies/Ideas Update!

Many of you commented about some of the tools and supplies that you keep on hand. Thank you, because either I forgot about some of these things or I have them and I don't use them on a consistent basis for every project. Here are some excerpts from the comments and links if possible to the commenter's blog and my own comments:

Myra: " . . .Wright's bias tapes in many colors, lightweight fusible interfacing, webbing and narrow steam a seam 2 for turning up knit hems . . . tracing paper, the large pad, about 11x14, from the architectural section of office depot for tracing off and amending patterns . . ."

Excellent idea on the paper, Myra! I'd never thought about looking at the office supply stores for that sort of paper. I usually use tissue paper, but that's another post!

Vicki: " . . . sleeve roll and a clapper for pressing . . ."

These are tools I don't have, but obviously are very useful. [Note to any reading family members: add these to my Christmas list!]

Stephanie: ". . .seam ripper . . ."

Uh, yeah, I'm sure many of us use this tool way more than we want to or want to admit! I actually prefer my little scissors for this job, especially ripping out 4 thread serged seams. Yes, I've BTDT.

Miriam in KS: "I have one of the "freebie" makeup bags in a rectangular box shape that I put to use as a travel sewing kit. Black and white thread, assorted packet of hand sewing needles, small scissors, water soluble pen, a pencil, an emery board, safety pins, and a seam ripper. A lot of times, it "travels" with me from my sewing machine to the living room so my supplies are contained while I do handwork and 'watch' tv in the easy chair! I put it together back in 1999 while chaperoning my daughter's choir trip. I was the uniform chair and wanted to be able to sew buttons back on if needed or do other repairs."

Now why haven't I thought of that? I'm forever getting up from the chair in the TV room because I forgot my scissors. And thread. And ruler. And . . . whatever. I might have well just stayed in the studio!

ejvc from Stitchers' Guild: "I now have a special long needle for basting, basting thread, a thimble and embroidery scissors that I keep together for doing handwork. The basting thread is like a super thin string and it's really nice to use - two strands of embroidery floss are similar. I use a spool made by Coats but I think there is some Japanese thread out there as well that comes in a skein. Also I keep needles in a needle book - it's two leaves of felt sewn down the middle into a cross-stitched cover (my last bit of cross-stitching!) down the middle. Super simple and gives four felt leaves of needles. And doesn't poke you."

Smart ideas - I do have a very thin shiny rayon thread I use for basting. It doesn't leave marks and is very easy to remove.

Thank you all for contributing and I hope that it will inspire or sparks some ideas for the rest of us!

Parting Shot: Sneak Peek, as promised. Here's the jacket and top worn with jeans and the entire suit by itself. I'll post about the top tomorrow and show you pictures of me wearing the full suit on Monday.

Ride 'Em Cowboy - Vest - Part IV

Trouble on the Trail

Injuns? No.

Varmits? No.

Cattle Rustlers? No.

Vicious Lining Slashers? Yes. Take a look:

Everything was rolling along just fine until I went to finish the armholes. I put together the lining and stitched it around all the edges except the armholes, turned the vest to the right side and pressed it. I turned in the seam allowances at the armholes to the inside and catch-stitched them in place:

I stay stitched, clipped and turned the lining seam allowances into place:

I started pining the two edges together and that's when I saw it - the slash in the lining! I don't know when it happened, but it couldn't stay there. I decided to take out just that one front of the lining and replace it. It was easy at this point because I still had access to the inside of the vest. I took off the offending piece, pressed it and used it as a pattern piece for the new lining front.

Thirty minutes later and I was back in business, getting the lining ready for final stitching. Whew. I'm not sure what I'd done if it was the cattle rustlers.

Today, I'm working on the top to go with the inspired by Prada suit - I should be able to show you a few sneak peek shots tomorrow. I'll get full suit photos on Sunday after I wear it to church.

Parting Shot: Tuna! Kiwi likes tuna for lunch, too and pesters me while I'm trying to eat my lunch. All she gets is to lick the bowl, though.

Prada Inspired Jacket

The jacket for Prada inspired suit is done! I've been working on it quite a bit lately as I'd really like to have this suit done because I need to finish my Great Coat Sew Along Coat before the weather gets too cold!

I've used the BWOF model below as a starting point for the jacket. Remember that this jacket is "inspired by", but not an "exact copy" so there might be some similar design elements and some design elements that are not the same.

To start with, this jacket has raglan sleeves, and the Prada jackets do not. I did make the sleeves for this jacket as per the BWOF pattern, with a knit fabric for the sleeves only. I liked the idea, as it made the jacket seem more "sweater-like" to me.

The Prada jackets have a round neckline, where the BWOF had a v-neck. I wanted the round neckline, so I traced the neckline from one of my favorite cardigans (the red one, of course!) and modified the pattern. You can see the original line of the v-neck on the pattern piece below, and the amout I added. I also had to add more buttonholes and respaced them.

I decided to make the top buttonhole horizontal and the remainder vertical since my cardigans are like that, too. I know they are hard to see in the photo below, but they are there!

I also left the jacket longer as per the BWOF jacket. I added a lining to the woven fabric portions of the jacket and finished the facing edges with a strip of shiny gold fabric.

At the raglan seams, where the body meets the sleeves, I serged all the seam allowances together. I was tempted to bind the seams, but I think it would have been too bulky, with lining, lace, wool and knit fabric in addition to the binding itself. This treatment is just as clean and flatter than the binding.

So far, I'm really pleased with the suit. I only need to make a top to wear with it, and I'll do that tomorrow. It should be a simple, since it is a knit top made of my recently acquired winter white stretch velvet. I'll show you that later this week. Tomorrow will be an update on REC - I'm almost done!

Parting Shot: Back in Business. I've only done one alteration since June, and today my husband's aunt brought me a few things to alter: a brand new Calvin Klein coat and a Lauren by Ralph Lauren suit jacket.

Studio Stuff

Last week, Connie left this question in the comments and I thought I'd answer it today: "Any tips on how you organize your sewing studio? What tools, products you keep on hand, etc." Let me see if I can answer that today.

First, regarding the studio organization. I reorganized my studio last fall, you can see the results in this post and this one. I probably need to go through everything again and straighten everything out, since I've acquired more stuff since then.

Second, regarding tools. I keep on hand five pair of scissors, but use only three regularly: pinking shears and duckbill applique scissors for occasional use and for regular use, one for cutting patterns and paper, one for fabric only and a pair of small scissors for clipping threads. I also have a few rotary cutters and mats. These are ideal for cutting anything rectangular or cutting strips for making piping or binding. I also keep rulers on hand. My metal C-thru ruler is my favorite. I don't own any curved rulers, although I know I should, but free hand draw or trace curves. Those should go on my Christmas list.

I have a good collection of needles for both hand and machine sewing. The right needle for the job you're trying to do is one of the most important things, especially when machine sewing. The right needle can save you hours of frustration. Notice that I have one pincushion for pins and one for needles. This way I don't keep losing the needles inside the pincushion.

Other tools/products I frequently use are these: spray starch, fray check, the stiletto, seam ripper, the tool for pushing out sharp points (it must have a real name, right?), white marking pencil, blue water soluble pen, pencil. Products I keep on hand are silk organza, muslin and a variety of interfacings. Beyond that, I do have a small collection of elastics, zippers, snaps, hooks and eyes, and buttons, that I use regularly but I try to keep those collections small and buy only what I intend to use.

I keep much of this stuff and quite a bit of other sewing related junk, too, in a tray by my sewing machine. I know it is in there somewhere if I need it. My son organizes it occasionally, but I'm content that it is contained.

Really, these are things I use all the time for small tools - not fancy, but it doesn't take the most expensive or fancy gadgets to make nice garments.

Lastly, I have a decent steam iron (not top of the line, but decent), a sleeve board (acquired just this past year), a pressing ham and a couple of wooden dowels use for pant legs, sleeves or anything long and narrow, and silk organza and velvet for pressing cloths.

I hope that helps a bit, Connie. I don't tend to keep a lot of stuff on hand due to space and budget constraints (I have quite a collection of beads, sequins, vintage buttons, pattern and notions and trims that must be housed, too!), but I have learned that I can produce well made garments with good basic tools. For the rest of you reading, what do you keep on hand that you use all the time - either a tool or product?

I'm almost done with the Prada inspired jacket and the REC vest, so be watching for updates on those in a few days.

Parting Shot: New Toy. Well, sort of. I got some Bubble Jet Set to use with my inkjet printer to make labels for my art garments. Before, I was running fabric ironed to freezer paper through the school's copier to make labels. Now that I'm not working, I don't have access to the photocopier, and I'm sure Staples would frown on such a thing.

Ride 'Em Cowboy - Vest - Part III

Still Working On It!

I'm still plodding along on the vest. I'm getting to that part of the project where I just want it done, but know that there's still work to be done. This is the vest as of today, front and back (not the best pictures, but by this point, I think you've got the idea):

I'm glad now that I made the vest - it is the right thing for the outfit.

It still needs all the threads pulled through and tied off at the side seams, not exciting but must be done. After that, the lining needs to be installed and then labels made and sewing to all three pieces. Then I think I'll be done. No, wait, I still need to resolve the belt-buckle issue before November. Thank you all (Rachelle, you especially, I'm thinking about it!) for your suggestions as to where to look - I really haven't had time to fully search for one. I know I won't need it until November, so I know I have time to stall on it.

Parting Shot: Birthday Gift. Thank you for the birthday wishes! I did have a very nice day and even Kiwi remembered and somehow got me a Sephora gift card. What a nice kitty, I'm glad we rescued her instead of leaving her as a stray.

Prada Inspired Skirt - Part II

A Little Progress

I've made a little progress on the skirt, although not as much as I'd like. My husband took me out for dinner last night for my birthday and today we're having friends over for a BBQ. Below is what I have so far. This is actually one of the better pictures of the lace and is pretty much how the skirt will look when finished and pressed properly.

The shell of the skirt is almost finished. I started by basting the lace to the fashion fabric that had been interfaced, as seen below. I did not invisibly tack the lace to the fashion fabric because these pieces are small; the lace will not pull away from such a small piece and hang oddly.

I then constructed and fit the skirt. I purposely cut the skirt a bit big as pencil skirts do not always fit me well. I attached the yokes first, installed the zipper and then basted the side seams. This made the skirt easier to fit from waist to hem.

It is easier to cut it bigger to start with and take it in than to try to figure out what to do with a skirt that is too small. As you can see, I had to take in it quite a bit. No matter, it fits nicely, skimming the body and is not too tight. The white line on the left is the first seam line, and the line on the right is the corrected seam line. I trimmed off the excess fabric, serged the edges and stitched the seam properly.

At this point, I need to finish the lining, install the lining and finish the hems. Then I can start on the jacket. That will have to wait until tomorrow. Right now, it's BBQ time.

Parting Shot: Shiny Shoes. We also went shoe shopping last night and I came home with this pair. They're brown patent leather, and will replace my platform high heels that I've found are not too kind to my left knee. I do have a weakness/fondness for shiny shoes, so of course, these came home with me.