Mad for Plaid - Coat

Done!

I got the clasps today in the mail and they are fabulous! I was really excited to get them - they are the perfect finisher for the coat. Here he is in his new coat, front and back:

The pockets didn't show up very well, but you've already seen those and they haven't moved anywhere!

Here's a couple of close-ups of the clasps on the coat:

I sewed them on with the machine, with a leather needle. I can buy leather needles for my machine locally at Jo-Ann's. I would have to say, that the right needle for the job can make any sewing task easier. Sometimes all that is needed is the right needle!

Overall, this was not a hard coat to make! If you're thinking of making a coat for yourself or someone else, I'd go ahead and try it! Most coats have a simple shape and are fairly easy to put together.

Parting Shot: We went to another Jo-ann's today and I bought more fabric on super clearance, plus discount. All of the fabric below was $2.25 per yard or less. This suite of fabrics is what my daughter picked for her winter church outfits. I only made her one dress last year, so all of her things were older than that and too small! I am making the skirts, short jacket and dress from BWOF 9/07. This plus one fabric from my stash and possibly one other new fabric will complete the wardrobe.

Mad for Plaid Coat

Part 2 - Lining

The coat is almost done! All I need to do is finish some top stitching, hem the sleeves and put on the clasps. I didn't get the clasps today, but hopefully the mail carrier will bring them tomorrow.

I wanted to add some extra warmth to the coat, so I decided to use a layer of silk batting as an underlining. The reason for this is that our ride to church is less than 10 minutes; therefore the car doesn't even get warm before we get there. When it is below freezing, this can really seem like a long ride! To add the extra layer, I serged the batting and lining together as one when serge-finishing the edges of the lining pieces. The satin frays terribly, so it had to be serged regardless. Below you can see one of the lining/batting units.

I also wanted a sleeve with a plaid cuff, but didn't want the whole lining sleeve to be the wool plaid. What I did was to split the sleeve piece horizontally so that I could make the bottom portion the plaid but have the top half be lining. The sleeves below are ready to put inserted into the lining.
The way the lining was inserted into the coat was new to me. I really liked Burda's instructions and will probably try them again for another garment. Below you can see the instructions from Burda; they're clearer than pictures taken of the dark grey wool. First, the lining is stitched to the front facing; on one side an opening is left for turning when complete. Second the neck edges are aligned right sides together and stitched. Third, the hem edges are aligned right sides together and stitched. After clipping and trimming the seams, the whole coat is turned to the right side through the opening and pressed. The opening is then fell stitched shut.

Here's the coat so far, maybe tomorrow it will be finished:

Parting Shots: This is door #3 to the closet at the end of my studio. Behind door #3 you will find a lot of bins of fabric.
What will you find behind the bins? Kiwi! She's found another place to hide. Eventually she'll get too big to get back there. Despite the new hiding place, she is interacting more with the humans and cats, so a little progress is being made.

Midnight Garden - Jacket - Part XV

Progress Update

I'm still working on the vines and hope to have them all appliqued by the end of the weekend. Progress at this point is both slow and fast. It's slow because this is all done by hand, but fast because it is progressing faster than I thought. Next week I am fully going to concentrate on Midnight Garden and not work on any other sewing projects. Even though I have a list a mile long of other projects, and the new BWOF arriving any day to tempt me, I really need to concentrate on MG.

Here are the vines so far. In the top photo you can see the I've got the back done and almost one of the fronts. The second photo shows a close up of the vines and how they are intertwined at the intersections.

After the vines are complete, the leaves will be attached and then I will work on the flowers, leaves and crickets. Watch next week for posts on how those components are made.

Tomorrow I should be able to give you an update on the coat - I hope to get the clasps by the weekend so I can finish up the coat!

Q/A: I had an anonymous request for the pattern envelope picture from the pattern details post from yesterday. Here are the pictures that I previously posted last Wednesday and yesterday. I probably should have included them with yesterday's post, too! I just got caught up in all the interesting details about the pattern. Sorry about that!


Parting Shot: My latest vintage pattern from eBay! This is not only the pattern, but old fabric samples and a magazine page featuring the pattern. Everything is in fabulous condition. This pattern and magazine ad says "design by Helen Rose for Jane Powell in MGM's "Nancy Goes to Rio", which was released in 1950. The skirt is gorgeous, and I'm thinking of making both the jacket and skirt. The jacket in red and the skirt in a Prince of Wales plaid, like this one from Fabric Mart (it's the 8th fabric on the page in black/white/red).

Vintage Pattern - Vogue 4751 - 1957

As promised today we will take a sneak peak into my latest vintage gown pattern.

The first thing I noticed about the pattern when I pulled it out of the bag was the previous owner's extensions to the bodice pieces. It looks like someone wanted a longer waisted bodice - a long line fitted bodice with a dropped waist seam was popular around the same time. It looks like it was drafted to be attached not with a straight even waist seam, but one that zig-zags to form points at each gore. It is interesting to speculate on this pattern morph, isn't it?

In the photo above are the bodice pieces, from left to right in the order they'd be sewn together. Of course there are quite a few gathered edges, but I find the pieces themselves interesting. The one on the far right is the back.

The lining, or inner bodice, is different in construction that the outer bodice. It is almost the same as the inner bodice on the Diamonds gown, made from a vintage pattern as well. You can see the front piece with it's center horizontal bust dart and some of the instructions in the photo below.


Due to the straps and front construction, this gown has a back zipper. The zipper might be able to be moved to the side. That would depends on the straps and the support they'd need.

The straps themselves are attached via felled seam over the gathered edges of the bodice. The strap facings are then stitched in place.

The gown also features an inner belt at the waist to take the stress of the heavy skirt off of the straps and top edge of the dress. The skirt is also underlined in netting or crinoline to give it that perfect shape, which I'm sure was also helped by wearing the proper petticoats with it.

Beyond the construction details, I noticed a few things about the deltor (instruction sheet) and pattern printings.

The first thing you see when looking at the deltor is this:

My pattern didn't include sheet 2, but from reading the rest of the pattern, sheet 2 gives information on fitting, fabrics, and general sewing techniques.

I also noticed this at the top of the sheet with the actual instructions. Interesting reminder of what we're supposed to be doing!

Another thing about this pattern that I find odd is that it is only printed in English. I have other patterns that are older or from the same era and the pattern pieces themselves have all the words printed in English, French and Spanish. This one doesn't - take a look at the piece #5, the back, below. Elsewhere, in the instructions, the word "center" is spelled "centre", which is the alternate spelling, not generally used in American publications.

Q/A: Sigrid wanted to know I'd ever make this one or if it was just part of my collection. I buy vintage patterns with the intent of actually making them, not just collection. The bodice is just too interesting not to at least consider it or a version of it to be made. If I were to make it, it might be part of an art garment ensemble.

Parting Shot: Kiwi is just outside the photo shoot. She's out and about the house more, but still very skittish and scampers away if we try to pet her. She does try to play with the other cats, but they view her as more of nuisance than as a playmate.

Mad for Plaid Strikes Again!

Thanks for all the compliments on the skirt - it is fun to wear! A few of you commented on my hair - thank you, I like it longer, too. My hairdresser got a little too scissor happy this last winter/spring, so I'm trying to grow it out a bit, but not to the point of unmanageable!

This time, it's not me that is getting the new plaid garment. It is my son. He needs a new winter dress coat for church and other nicer events where a ski parka is too casual.

The pattern is an OOP Burda that I picked up for 25 cents in the OOP bin at Martin's House of Cloth. He really liked the style, so then all I needed was the fabric.

The fabric is plaid multi-colored wool and a dark grey wool coating both from Timmel Fabrics. I got both pieces with part of my gift certificate from the SWAP contest. I bought the lining yesterday. I was pretty pleased with that - it's satin on one side and flannel on the other. I believe that this fabric is originally intended to be used for making pajamas, but I think it will make a great coat lining. It will be warm, but slip over clothes easily.

Below you can see a close up of the wrong side of the plaid on one of the yokes. It has some sort of gold glitter finish on it, which I'm going to assume is the right side, but the other side doesn't. I'm going to use the non-glitter side as the right side.

The last thing I needed to get for the coat was the toggles. Unfortunately, I can't get them locally, and even a 45 minute drive to Manchester yielded no leather coat toggles. I've been looking for them since the summer as I knew I'd be making this coat this fall. Last night I got to looking on the internet and found some at both MJTrim and Greenberg & Hammer. The ones at G&H were my favorites, until I found these on eBay:

Although they aren't toggles, they have the same function as the toggle clasps, but are a little more interesting. Plus, they're vintage!

So far, this is what I've accomplished on the coat besides cutting it out:

The yokes are attached; before the end of this evening I'm going to get the pockets and flaps in place.

Parting Shot: I got the pattern today! Here's a better look at the dress. Tomorrow I will do a post showing some of the pattern pieces and construction details.

The Plaid Skirt Goes to School

The Q/A is first today. Cherie had to ask about the plaid skirt: What will you wear with it?

Here I am this morning ready for school:

The skirt is higher waisted, but not neck-threatening. I realize it's not an obvious raised waist, but on me a little bit higher and we'd be under the bustline. It's a bit too warm to wear turtlenecks, but I could wear a black one with this skirt. Otherwise I'd wear a white button up shirt, but between it being in the laundry and the temperature today, I wore the white t-shirt and black sweater combo instead. After wearing the skirt all day, I can say that it is comfortable and the elastic in the back panel is the perfect amount of ease for walking.

After school, I went over to Jo-ann's and got all this fabric:

There's one yard of red/white/black boucle (of which I hope to find more at another store), almost 4 yards of one black 100% wool suiting and 3 yards of different wool suiting, plus 1 1/2 yards of flannel backed satin lining for my son's coat. I also bought a zipper and two notions. Total price? $28.39. Between the clearance sale and another discount I get, I got the wool which was originally $15.00 per yard, for $2.25 per yard! I've got plans for almost all of that fabric, too.

Parting Shot: My son made me this picture. I'm sure you know exactly what he meant. He has also done a few others of some of my other show pieces, too, they're pretty cute.

Midnight Garden - Skirt - Introduction

So far, all you've seen is the jacket, and really, just various pieces of the jacket. Today we'll take a quick peek at the skirt. By the end of next week, I hope to have the dupionni side quilted.

The skirt is a straight skirt with darts, a side zipper and a deep pleat at side back that runs the full length of the skirt (see photo below). It also has a waistband, but I didn't put it on the muslin yet, knowing there would be some changes.

Actually, it's a pretty simple skirt. It does need one design change and that is the closure. The fact is that zippers and reversible garments don't always play nice; sometimes, but not always. My plan is to use that back pleat area to make a wrap style skirt that crosses over in the back and closes with buttons and loops. This will preserve the purpose of the pleat and solve the closure problem all at once.

You can see above that I've removed the pleat, cut off all of the left half of back including most of the pleat and turned under the edge. I then cut a second back omitting the pleat - the new left back - to mirror image the right back. I removed the zipper and stitched the left back to the front at the side seam.

The only other major change is the length - it is way too long! I'll have to remove about 6 inches or so from the hem.

Q/A: Mimi commented, "Your closets must be stuffed to the brim!!!! What do you do when you fall out of love with something you've made? " Well, the truth is my closet isn't stuffed. I am pretty ruthless about what is kept is what isn't. I have a rule that if I didn't wear it the previous year, I probably won't this year and don't need to keep it. The other fact is that most of my work wardrobe was made four years ago, when I went back to teaching full time. Since then, my personal style has developed further and I know what works for me (pockets are a must!) and what doesn't regarding my job and personal taste. I did a major wardrobe clean out this summer and had to make some clothes! That explains why I've made myself quite a few things recently. That said, when an item isn't doing it for me anymore or just turns out to be wrong for me and I decide to get rid of it, I always give it away to someone I know will use it or donate it to charity. If the item is past it's prime, I salvage what I can (buttons, zippers, etc.) and then pitch it.

Parting Shot: I got my "free" Vogue pattern! I still had to pay shipping, but the $3 shipping is still cheaper than buying it on sale at Jo-ann's. You know I had to get the latest wedding dress, #2979! Not that I need a wedding dress, but in a shorter length with the right fabrics it could make a lovely dressy winter dress. I'm seeing the long sleeve version in a much shorter length made in satin and velvet!

BWOF #115, 7/07

Mad for Plaid

You should have known from the last week's worth of posts that this next project would probably be a stripe or plaid. Without further ado, my latest plaid skirt:


I picked BWOF #115, 7/07 for several reasons. I only had a small amount of the plaid fabric, which was part of my prize from the SWAP contest sponsored by Julie of Timmel Fabrics, so I couldn't make a pleated skirt. I already own a pleated skirt in a similar plaid anyway. I also wanted to make a higher-waisted skirt this season, but with my short waist, anything that is too high waisted would look very out of proportion. This skirt has a slightly raised waist, which works nicely with my body shape. The skirt also has an interesting back, with the center panel gathered about knee level (another one of those BWOF line drawing surprises).

If you're thinking of trying a higher waisted skirt, but don't want to go to extremes, try this one - it went together easily and can be completed in a weekend. I really didn't see anything unusually difficult about this one, but let's look at a few details of the skirt and a few things I changed.

First, I have never seen a piece like this in all the big 4 patterns I've sewn. The pocket bag has an extension toward center front and is meant to be joined with the other pocket back in a center front seam. I like it - it's very neat and tidy and supports the pockets all along the front seam. This would be easier to see in the second photo, but I matched the plaids and had to turn back the pocket itself. In the third photo you can see the piping I added to the pocket edges. I had a bit of black velvet piping leftover from another project and liked the idea of a definite edge for the pocket.

Second, let's take a look at the gathering of the center back panel. There is actually a casing applied to the wrong side of the fabric with a bit of elastic inserted. The elastic is then caught in the panel seam to keep it in place.


Third, below you'll see the waist finish. Even though I lined my skirt, I still chose to use the waist facing pieces. The waist area on the high waisted garments is prone to wrinkling if not supported somehow, so the waist facing pieces were very important. I simply treated the lining and fashion fabric as one piece and applied the facing in the usual way and hand tacked it to the skirt at the side seams. Also notice that the zipper in inserted in the left panel seam. You could move it to the side seam if your hip curve isn't too extreme.

I'll post a photo of me wearing the skirt on Monday, when I'll wear it to school.

Q/A: Today's Q/A comes from Pirate: Before you got your serger, how did you finish the seams in your garments? If there was also a lining, did you simply pink the seams on both garment and lining and let it go at that? The seam finish is dependent on the garment and fabric. For unlined garments or lined garments where the seams might be seen, the seams are always finished by either french seaming, binding/Hong Kong finish or something similar. The exception is the knits, since for the most part, they don't ravel or fray (some do - this is something to check before cutting out a garment!) . For completely lined garments in which none of the interior seams would ever be seen, the seam allowances were pinked or left alone. The only exception to that was if the fabric frayed easily, then I'd usually put in some stay stitching and pink the edges, to finish but not add bulk to the seam. I actually still do things this way, except that the serger takes the places of stay stitching and pinking. I don't mind doing all the extra steps that a bound or french seam takes.

Parting Shot: One of my birthday earrings. My husband buys my jewelry from our local gold/silversmith, who has a shop filled with beautiful jewelry that he and his staff makes. Our family has been buying from him for over 25 years, so we all have some very unique and lovely pieces. These earrings appear to be simple, but if you look closely at the construction, they're not as simple as they appear.