Brown Corduroy Skirt - Burda 5/10 #106 

v. 2.0

I'm making the same pattern that I just used for the navy skirt again, but this time in chocolate brown wide wale corduroy and with some modifications.  Because the fabric is corduroy and I'm not overly fond of the zipper finish (although, I wore the skirt to church last night and it was just fine), I'm making the following changes:

1. Moving the zipper to center back and making it an invisible zipper.  This is easy.  The front is now cut on a fold and the back is cut in two pieces with a seam allowance at center back.  
2. Getting rid of the welt pockets.  These aren't impossible in corduroy, but the resulting bulk isn't exactly going to be slimming in front tummy/thigh area.  Instead, side seam pockets are going to be made.
3. To reduce bulk in the pockets and waist facing, I'm using a thinner cotton print.  

Since I've already added the extra darts to the pattern, and moving the zipper involves only a cutting change, the only thing I needed was a pocket piece.  That problem was easily solved too when I noticed that right above the line drawings for the skirts in Burda was the dress section with a dress that had pockets in the side seams.  This is a cute dress - Cidell made one this summer - but the pocket pattern piece was what I needed.  So I traced it off.

Here's the cotton print I'm using for the pockets and waistband facing.  I'm really happy with it.  I did have a brown paisley picked out (and I do love a good paisley!), but I saw this one and I actually smiled when I saw it, so I knew it was the right one. Not that anyone will see it, but I like it!

To make sure no one will see the pockets and linings, I've made the pockets partially out of corduroy.

This is how I did it:

1.  I cut the pocket piece of out the contrast fabric. 

2.  I cut some rectangles of the fashion fabric.  These are longer than the pocket piece and about 2 1/2" wide.

3.  The fashion fabric rectangles are placed about 1 1/2" from the side seam edge of the pocket and then stitched right sides together with a 1/2" or so seam.  \

4.  The contrast fabric is then pressed open to the side seam side.

5.  The pocket is turned over and the fashion fabric is trimmed to the proper shape.  You could use the pattern piece for this, but the contrast pocket is right there so why not?

6.  The excess contrast pocket fabric is trimmed away from underneath the fashion fabric, for more bulk reduction.  If the two fabrics are not bulky, this step can be skipped.  The seam is then pressed open.

Now the pockets are ready to assemble.

I'm hoping to get this skirt done over the weekend.  Next up:  developments on GTDD.

Parting Shot:  In the Act.  So, I'm trying to take pictures for this post and who decides to show up and prance around the photo shoot?  Oh yeah, that's *my* cat, Kiwi.  She still doesn't trust or like the other family members.

Plain Navy Skirt - Burda 5/10, #106

 Done!

I was able to finish the plain navy skirt and am fairly happy with it.  It is a plain old navy twill, for those of you who wondered.  Nothing exciting, but wear well and will work well with other pieces in my wardrobe.

Burda's instructions were not as helpful as I'd hoped for the inside finishing of the zipper area.  The zipper tab at the top is a bit more bumpy than I'd like, too, but it's not unwearable and barely noticeable.  I wasn't using a lining and instructions for finishing the inside were written for a lined skirt.  At any rate, it is done and pretty clean on the inside.

I do plan to make this skirt again, but with some design changes for the chocolate brown corduroy.  With any luck, I might be able to finish it by the end of the week.

Parting Shot:  Color.  We're just starting to get really nice fall color around here!  I hope to be in the mountains this weekend and I'm pretty sure the color is better there.

From Groceries to Dinner Date - Part IV

Still Thinking and Making Samples

Well, I'm still really happy with the new pattern choice, Vogue 8620.  We'll see how that works out when I make the muslin, but I think it will be what I want.  Since the one side will be denim and cotton casual fabrics, now the question is, how do I deal with the lining or second side?  I've got some options, but I'm not sure exactly what I want to do.  Here they are:

1. Line the jacket with dark blue.  Not exciting at all, but gets the job done.
2. Line the jacket with red.  I'm not 100% sure about this because I'm not sure how much of the inside of the jacket you can see at the hem - there's a shaped hem on this jacket with the back being longer than the front.  
3. Make a reversible jacket with more luxurious red fabrics on the reverse side.  I've got plenty of red velvet and silk.  I'm not sure what I'd do for embellishment, but it would need *something*, plus the quilting.
4. Make a reversible jacket with more luxurious blue fabrics on the reverse side.  I've also got plenty of navy velvet and silk, plus a whole lot of satin.  I've got some embellishment ideas, but I'm not 100% set on those yet.

The main concern with a second side is the weight and thickness and drape, actually the lack of drape.  I've got already got quilted denim going on here, and that isn't the most drapey fabric in the world.  Add to that the fact that the more quilting you put into a fabric, the stiff it gets, and I've got a problem with a double sided, heavily quilted garment.  I've got a good size sample of  quilted denim that I'm going to wash and dry a few times over the next couple of days (I've got to time it with all the rest of the household laundry so as not to be wasteful!) and see if that helps the drape any.  If I've got a quilted satin or even a silk duiponi on the reverse side, the final product will really be stiff.  I could do a washed quilted dupioni, I have a sample of that I could throw in the wash, too, just to see how it turns out.  I don't want something super stiff or thick;  I want something comfortable and wearable.  There is a balance to be struck here, and because this garment is certainly going to be more wearable, I need to think this through beyond just the embellishments.

As a side note, I have been making more embellishment samples:

Which brings me to another concern - if this is supposed to be more wearable, then shouldn't the fabrics be machine washer and dryer friendly, too?  Hmm. . . . . that's another thing to think about isn't it?  Some of those finer fabrics for the reverse side might not be so washable or able to tolerate all the washing.  That brings me back around to what do to about the lining!  I don't want anything boring, but I don't want anything competing with the outside, like a loud print. I'll have to think about what to do.

If you've read this far, what do you think?

Tomorrow I'll show you the navy skirt;  I finished it today.

Parting Shot:  Making Dinner.  My son loves to cook and yesterday he asked if he could make dinner tonight.  So far he's doing ok, we'll see how it turns out in a little bit.  He doesn't do too bad for his age; he knows how to cook quite a few things from scratch.

Plain Navy Skirt - Burda 3/10, #106

Good Progress

I was able to get this skirt cut out on Friday, and then spent part of Saturday and Sunday working on it.  This skirt has some nice features - darts, welt pockets and a front zip, but isn't too over the top as a whole.  The back also has double welt pockets, but I decided to leave them off, because I was pretty sure I'd need an extra dart in the back. 

On Saturday, I was able to get the fronts with the welt pockets constructed as well as the back with the two darts.  While the welt pocket and dart combo on the front looks complicated, it isn't that bad.  The dart is made first, then the welt pocket is made with the welt right next to the dart.  It isn't actually part of the dart at all, although it looks that way. 

You could also make this skirt without the welt pocket.  I'm thinking of making this one again in a thick corduroy, so I think I'll not do the welt pockets.  I might do a side seam pocket instead, or use a different pattern altogether.  I'm not sure yet.

On Sunday, I got the zipper installed and that was enough for me to start the fitting process. 

 

As predicted, I needed two extra darts in the back and two extra darts in the front.  The back ones were easy to add. 

For the front darts, I placed the point of the dart right at the top of the pocket welt.  This way I wouldn't have to work around the pocket, nor would the pocket welt gape because there was now less fabric between the two ends of the welt.

 

I've added a dart to each of the pattern pieces in case I make this pattern again. 

Today I made all the fitting changes permanent, sewed the side seams and added the hem.  All that's left is the waist facing and inside button and this one will be done.

Parting Shot:  More Socks. I've had the yarn for these socks for a while, but I wanted to make the beaded bracelet first.  (BTW, Gail, there is no fastener for the bracelet, the base is a metal cuff not quite a complete circle with a small opening that just slips on over the wrist.) The pattern I'm using is the Pyroclastic Socks, which I got from Knitty.  I think they'll be pretty cool and in a few more pattern repeats, they'll look a lot more like the sample socks!

From Groceries To Dinner Date - Part III

Some Things To Think About

Yesterday afternoon I went to Joann's to look at a pattern that I thought might work, Vogue 8620.  I didn't buy it, but I did take some pictures of the line drawing and pattern pieces with my iPhone.  I wanted to see if I could come up with some embellishment options before committing to the pattern.

Once home, I emailed the photos to myself and then printed a page of the line drawings.  I then could work with pens and colored pencils to try out redesign and embellishment ideas. 

So far, I'm pretty happy with some of the ideas I've worked out, so maybe this is the one  I'll give it a few more days before making a final decision.

Parting Shot:  Winner?  Not sure who's going to win this wrestling match.

Navy Plaid Skirt - Vogue S-4812

Done!

I was able to finish the skirt today, as mostly what I had left was just the handwork of hemming and stitching the waistband facing in place. 

I'm pretty happy with how this turned out.  The invisible zipper looks good, not 100% perfect, but for less than 1/8" off, I don't rip out.  If someone is looking closely enough to notice, they're too close, IMO.

I can wear this now or this winter, styled with different knit or woven white shirts, and navy or red sweaters.

Q/A:  Marianne asked, "Are there any tips you can give me when using an invisible zip in a thick fabric like the wool you are using for this skirt? I always use a strip of interfacing in the seam allowance when installing zips but I find it impossible to get an invisible zip to look nice in thick fabrics."  Well, there are many things to consider when installing a zipper and fabric thickness is certainly one of them.  For the most part, I do stabilize with strips of interfacing, too, but not always.  For this skirt, I did not.  The fabric is thick and the fabric is very stable.  I did not feel that it needed any interfacing.  If this would have been a stretchy or spongy wool, I certainly would have stabilized it most likely with some thin knit interfacing.   I will also vary the type and thickness of interfacing used for the strips depending on the type of fabric needing reinforcement.  That depends on the fabric itself and the amount of use the items will encounter.  As always, careful preparation of the zipper (the pressing before stitching so that you can get closer to the coils), and careful hand basting will help an invisible zipper installation; as does a lot of practice!

Next skirt:  Burda 3/10 #106 in navy twill. 

Parting Shot:  Cuff.  I finished the beaded cuff today.  I love the fact that I can wear it will all sorts of things from dressy to casual.  It is a statement piece and at first I was a bit bummed that my local bead shop didn't carry the 2" wide bracelet blanks, as this is only a 1" wide blank.  I think that it is fine and for my size, a 2" wide bracelet might be overkill.

From Groceries to Dinner Date - Part II

Back to the Drawing Board

I haven't been 100% happy with my choice of pattern for this project.  I like it, but I'm not totally in love with it.  I like many of the concepts, ideas and samples that I have made, but I don't really love how the whole thing is coming together.  I certainly have elements that I might use for other projects or still use in this one, but I've really been stuck in the design phase for longer than normal - I've been working on one element for weeks, literally.  In an effort to try to concretely figure out what is not working for me and why I don't quite have it all together, I've started back at the beginning:  with the basic garment shape and design.  I could blame all this on a low point in the creative cycle or whatever, but I know the difference and this project isn't quite clicking in all the right ways just yet.

So, this morning I dug out an old muslin of the pattern I'm using, pressed it a bit and tried it on (this muslin is shown below).  I tried on several other pieces from my art garment collection and came to the conclusion that I'm not exactly happy with the shape of the jacket.  While I love vintage designs, I think this one is just swallowing me up.  You have to keep in mind that I'm 5'2" and wear a 4 or 6 petite in RTW.  Reality is, I can't wear every design;  even if I like it, that doesn't mean it is doing me any good visually.  I then had to think carefully about what I really wanted from this ensemble in terms of shape and general details.

I then went through almost all the pattern magazines I own, plus all the Big 4 websites, looking for the right shape - comfortable, yet still fitted, and hopefully more flattering.  I think I've found one.  I'm going to go to Joann's tomorrow afternoon and take a better look at the pattern and probably get it.  I'll make a muslin and see what I think.  Then I'll need to redesign all of the embellishments.  Sigh.

I suppose the lesson you can take away from all this is:  if you don't love it, don't make it.  Within reason of course;  if you sew for others, you know their choices are not always yours!  If you are sewing for yourself, don't settle, find what you love in shape, style, details, fabrics and embellishments and make it work for you.

Now, maybe I'll get that skirt done so that I can show you that tomorrow!

Parting Shot:  Found.  Look what I found in my fabric closet!  This is some camel colored wool, not quite coating weight, but a little lighter.  I think it might work for my son's new coat.  He'll be right on trend for this fall - if I can convince him it's a good idea, he might want black.  I'm not even sure where this fabric came from, maybe my MIL?  This isn't a color I wear, so I know I didn't buy it.   It's not a great color for me and there are others that look better on me.

Navy Plaid Skirt - Vogue S-4812

Almost Done

I'm getting closer to finishing the skirt, although from today's pictures you wouldn't know it!  I got the lining made, but it isn't actually attached to the skirt, yet:

I got the outer waistband seamed and ready, too.  I wanted the vertical lines of the plaid on the waistband to match those on the skirt, starting at center front and center back.  I knew it wouldn't match all the way around due to the darts, but at least the centers would look nice.  Since there would be a side seam on the waist band, I matched up the plaids at the center and pinned towards the side seam for both the front and the back.

Once I got to the side seam, I marked the position of the side seam on the waistband pieces, added seam allowances and trimmed.  I then was able to sew the side seam in the waistband and still have the centers lined up right.

All that's left is the waistband and hems.  I should have a finished skirt to show you on Friday!

Q/A:  Today's question comes from Naptime Seamstress (yes, I remember those days!):  "How do you know when it's okay to cut a garment out across the grain? I assume you wouldn't want to cut any knit fabric on the cross grain" For the most part, you can cut wovens on the cross grain. The cross grain in a woven is a little less stable than the lengthwise grain, but still can be used for garments.  Woven fabric does have a little more give in the cross-wise grain than the lengthwise grain, but not nearly as much as the bias grain.  Usually this is not a problem;  border prints are designed on purpose to be cut cross grain.  For knits, you'll need to know what type of knit you have.  You would not want to cut a one-way or even some two-way stretch knits cross grain.  For knits, you typically have the direction of greatest stretch going around the body, not vertically on the body (the garment would then not stretch properly around the body and would sag at the hems).  The exception here is a four-way stretch knit, which stretches equally in all directions; some of these are border prints, too (Gorgeous Fabrics sells some nice ones), and like woven border prints offer some nice design opportunities when cut on the cross grain. 

Parting Shot:  Getting There.  I'm almost done with the beading on the bracelet.  Next I'll need to trim, attach it to the bracelet blank and finish the decorative beading around the edge.

From Groceries to Dinner Date - Part I

Embellishment Ideas

One of the most exciting parts of working on an art garment is the design process.  There are so many techniques and methods for embellishing a garment to chose from!  The problem is chosing wisely - too little is just as bad as too much.  Since I am trying to be a bit more reserved in my embellishments, this is a little harder and takes a little more thought as to the final look of the whole ensemble. 

I knew I wanted to do some piecing for this garment, so I started playing around with a quilt design program that I own called Electric Quilt.  I designed up a few pieces, playing with different arrangements of colors and color values. 

I also knew I wanted to do something else, besides the piecing and eventually the actual quilting, so I started by going through old drawings and picking out things that I liked but didn't use in other garments. I did draw a new rose, but I don't think I'll be using roses in this one.

I also drew quite a few different things that could fill the space around the pieced sections. 

Then I made some samples.  So far, I've made some quilting, tucking, stitching, machine applique and painting samples.  I still have a few more to go before I make a final decision as to exact motif and technique for the motif. 

So, I'm still undecided as to exactly how this is going to look, but as usual, I'll know the right thing when I see it.  Meanwhile, I can start work on the coat by starting the pieced sections.  That way I'll at least have something to look at and to drape on the dress form to get a better idea of how it will look.

Parting Shot:  Simplicity 6286.  My son needs a new coat for Sundays, as he's finally outgrown the one I made a couple of years ago.  He liked this style the best, and once I get done with my skirts, I'll start on the coat for him.

Navy Plaid Skirt - Vogue S-4812

Lots of Darts!

I really like this pattern because of all the darts - it is so easy for me to shape this to my body, although there are a lot of them to sew - eight for the skirt and eight for the lining.  So far, I've got them done, plus one side seam.  I basted the other side seam for a quick fit check and it's good.  This is how it looks at the moment.

Due to the thickness of this wool - it's that nice thicker vintage kind - I've opened up the darts and pressed them flat.  Otherwise, there would be too much bulk where the darts are, three layers worth of wool and no one needs that at the waistline.

 Q/A:  From Kelley:  "Why do you prefer a waistband? I am short waisted with a narrow waist and hippy. Since purchasing a waistband-less skirt some years ago, I prefer this treatment in all my skirts."  Well, I don't actually prefer a waistband over not having a waistband.  I've made and worn both styles over the years and it doesn't matter to me.  The next two skirts, for which I've already traced the pattern from Burda, are the waistband-less style.  The skirt for Spring's First Blush was also did not have a waistband, although the original Burda pattern had one. 

Tomorrow I'll see if I can get the zipper installed in the other seam and that seam finished up.  It will take a little more time since I'll need to match the plaids along the invisible zipper install and then down the seam line.

Parting Shot:  Live Toy.  At least it was for a while.  It did end up being sent to watery grave.

From Groceries to Dinner Date - Introduction

Concepts and Ideas

Since completion of Spring's First Blush (version 2, actually) late in spring or early summer, I haven't done much in the way of artistic garments at all.  This summer was particularly busy and I really wanted some quieter time for design work.  Once I'm actually fabricating or constructing I don't mind a busy house, because some of the work is repetitious and is easy.  As most of you know, I have a collection of art garments, mostly made from vintage patterns and almost all of them highly decorative and not really meant for everyday wear.  Particularly not Bluebird of Happiness or Garden Path.  I don't regret making any of the things I've made. I love them all for various reasons. 

I have received several comments over the years such as, "Oh, that's beautiful, but I wouldn't have any place to wear it." or "Do you really wear these things?"  Now, reality is, I don't design these things as everyday wear.  They are art pieces, meant for display to showcase what can be done with materials available to us.  That doesn't I can't design something more casual and with a little more restraint (something with less than 5,000 beads, let's say).  So, that was some inspiration for this ensemble.

I have worked on restraint in my artwork, and Spring's First Blush was the result of that.  I could have done *a lot* more with that one.  I had a lot of ideas and lots of beads and sequins.  I purposely kept it more simple and more accessible.  I am still going to work on that principle -  not using every technique and every beads and sequin I own and then some.  I am also working on the minimal purchase principle or sort of green principle.  Keep in mind that some of these garments cost hundreds of dollars in materials alone.  I am trying to keep my costs as low as possible.  The goal is to use as much stuff from my collections as possible; to put to good use what I have, to be creative, to make it work.

Now, for the part that you've been waiting for, rather than reading my dull thoughts behind all of this.  The ensemble will be a hip length swing coat (vintage pattern, of course), a knit top and jeans.  Yes, jeans.  I've never made a pants ensemble.  Everything I've ever made has been skirts or dresses, even the ensembles before the vintage series.

I will be modifying the New York pattern below to include a hood.  For some reason I love hoods and so I'm going to include one.   I'm still going to tweak my jeans pattern a bit this fall - I still have it from working on jeans earlier in the summer.   The top will probably be a Jalie or something I drape.  I'm not sure yet, but it will be red rayon jersey knit.  I already have that fabric.

For the fabrics and embellishments, I sat down and made a list of all the kinds of fabrics, embellishments and motifs that I love:  red, corduroy, plaid, velvet, roses, piping, etc, etc, etc.  From there, I decided on colors and possible embellishemnts.  The colors and fabrics will be denim, red corduroy, VickiW's hand-dyed fabrics and possibly navy satin and red velvet for lining as I want a reversible jacket with a little luxe on one side. 

There are still a few design features that I am working on, so stayed tuned for more next week!

Parting Shot:  Progress.  While "watching" TV last night, I made a little progress on the bracelet.  It is fun and nice to be able to work on it a little bit at a time. 

A Few Things For Myself

I've decided to make myself some skirts this fall.   I really need some skirts in basic skirts in solid colors: navy, brown and black.  For right now, I'll be working on the navy and brown ones, later this fall I'll make a black one to replace a black skirt that I have, but will be passed down to my daughter (for the final decision to keep or to donate it). 

As you can see, I've got three fabrics lined up:  a navy twill, a chocolate brown wide-waled corduroy and a navy/white wool windowpane plaid. 

I'll actually be starting with that piece on the bottom, the wool plaid.  It is a piece of vintage wool, given to me by an older customer whose aunt used to work in the woolen mills in our area.  This aunt would buy up pieces that were mill ends and other nice lengths.  The aunt never used them, and when the aunt died, her niece thought I might want them. 

This is a rather small piece, it is folded in half in the photo below, but you can tell how small a piece I have:

I knew for this skirt, it needed to be real simple and be something that I knew fit.  That meant using a pattern I already have made.  The perfect pattern for this skirt is the skirt portion of the The Wedding Suit pattern, vintage Vogue Special Design #4812.  I really loved the fit of the skirt, as it has eight waist darts and needed minimal adjusting at the side seams only.  Since it only has three pieces, that is an added bonus considering the amount of fabric I'm working with.

To make this work, I've cut it on the cross grain.   Thank goodness I'm short and don't need a longer skirt!

In addition to that, I've eliminated the center back seam (less plaid to match!) and kept the zipper in the left side seam.  I was not able to cut the waistband in one piece, but will have to piece it at the right side seam, plus face the waistband with some other fabric.  I don't think I want two thicknesses of wool at my waist, anyway.  As you can see, I've folded out the pattern piece for the waistband, leaving a seam allowance at the top;  I'll have to cut duplicates for the facing later.

After cutting, this is all the fabric that I had left:

This should be easy to make, but due to the fabric amount, I'll have a little more work to do!  We'll see how it is going on Monday.  Tomorrow I'll be announcing the start of a new art garment series:  From Groceries to Dinner Date!

Parting Shot:  Bead Embroidery.  I've always wanted to make a heavily bead embroidered piece, so instead of starting on another knitting project after finishing my daughter's socks, I started work on the cuff bracelet seen in progress below.  I had most of the supplies, and just needed to pick up a bracelet blank, some ultrasuede, E-6000 glue and those leaf beads.  Some of the beads have been repurposed from vintage jewelry and old buttons, too.