A New Jacket - Part Four

Lining and the Finishing

"Lining and the Finishing", doesn't that sound so neat and easy?  It sounds that way, but if you've ever made a jacket with a lining, you know that the finishing part is about 1/3 of the project, since there are so many small things that need to be done, much of it hand stitched.  It is satisfying though, to get it all done!

Once the lining was attached along the outer edges, trimmed, turned and pressed, it was all the finishing that needed to be done.  I tacked in the shoulder pads; even though this a child's jacket, the shoulder looks so much nicer with them than without.

I tacked the neck seam allowances together loosely and the proceeded with all the top stitching.  The collar has 1/4" top stitching, while the rest of the front edge was edge stitched. 

Next up were the hems.  Since this is a casual jacket, the hems for the jacket are machine stitched as shown on the original model in the magazine.  This certainly made this part go quickly!  The lining hems were then hand stitched in place. 

Last, but not least, buttons and buttonholes, done on the machine, of course! 

It's all done!  I hope to get a photo of my son wearing it and get it posted tomorrow.  He'll be excited to see when he gets home from school today.

Q/A:  Bev had this question, "I would have added extra height for a shoulder pad. Did I misunderstand. Did you not put in a shoulder pad and therefore lowered the sleeve cap? Or am I backwards and should remove sleeve cap ease when adding a shoulder pad." I *did* use a shoulder pad.  It is desirable to lower the sleeve cap on the lining only.  The reason is that the shoulder pad is inserted between the fashion fabric armscye and the lining armscye and it takes up space.  If both armscyes were the same circumference and the shoulder pad was sandwiched in between, there would be a wrinkling of the lining around the armscye because there would be too much fabric around the armscye for the lining.  See cross-section diagram below - that might clear things up.  If there was no shoulder pad this wouldn't be a problem, of course.  It just makes the inside of the jacket look neater. 

Parting Shot:  Turkeys.  I'd only seen the turkeys once this summer before yesterday.  I happened to be carrying in groceries and saw them through a window on the back of the house.  They're all full grown now and not the babies and mothers I saw earlier this summer!