The Holy Grail - Part Six

Almost There!

I'm think I'm getting pretty close to having this jeans pattern where I want it.  There is a difference between a garment that is perfectly smooth and wrinkle free while standing and a garment that you can actually sit, walk and move in.  I'm evaluating each change with both appearance and functionality in mind.  I thought it would be good if you could see my current favorite pair, along with the current best muslin, just to see how they compare.  Since these photos, I've scooped out a bit more of the back crotch curve and that seems to eliminated some of the back thigh wrinkles.

Back:

Front:

Side:

They're pretty close, even without the benefit of stretch.  If you want to see some jeans that fit about the same way, check out Dawn's Jalie jeans that she finished recently. 

For the record, this is what I've done to the pattern:

• increased fabric length over the seat 
• took a larger back inseam at the waist 
• made one fish eye dart at back thigh
• increased back leg width at the calf only
• reduced waistband at side seams.  
• raised waistband at center back; lowered waistband at center front
• scooped out back crotch a little more

That may sound like a lot, but some of those things were very easy to do, and can be quickly be done when a pattern is traced off.  Only two of those items take a little more time and redrafting to accomplish.  Most of this I've done before to trousers patterns in one way or other.  It is good to know exactly what your fit issues are.  Next time I make jeans or trousers, it will be quicker for me to identify what needs to be done.  I know exactly what needs to be done to blouses/bodices, to make them work for me, this is the same, just with jeans.  I'm still working on jacket changes, but I'll get there with those, too!

I did have a suggestion to make trouser jeans.  I've already made that style for myself and I rarely wear them.  They're really lovely jeans and they hang in my closet, unworn.  I'm not sure what it is about them, but I always reach for my other pairs of jeans instead.  

Mary Beth and Bunny brought up some good points about the difference in trouser vs. jeans drafts.  There is a lot difference between a jean and a trouser in terms of fit and functionality.  Now that I have a pattern that fits reasonably well, I can use it to make any jeans style I want.  If I want really skinny jeans, I can do that.  If I want flares (which I don't; they make me look even shorter), I can do that too.

Next, I need to actually make a pattern from this muslin and make any final changes.  I'm thinking I will mark all the seams with a marker before taking it apart, press it and then make a new pattern from the muslin pieces.  More on that in another post.

Parting Shot:  Cardigan.  At least that's what I'll have when I'm finished knitting this navy blue merino superwash wool that I bought from Knit Picks.   The pattern in Old Fashioned Girl, available at Verena Knitting's website. I love the pattern and it will be perfect for year round, in summer with whites and in the winter with navy.