Part Three
The shirt is now at the point where the sleeves are added. The sleeves were the only part of the shirt where I was concerned with the fit and only for the length. I did a quick check of the sleeve against my arm before cutting the fabric, and shortened it about 1 1/2", which is not unusual for me.
The first step in working on the sleeves is to prepare the bottom edge for the cuffs, which is easily done before stitching the sleeve seam. These sleeves have pleats and gathers to get the circumference of the sleeve small enough to attach to the cuff. There are pleats on the front, before the placket and gathers on the back, after the placket.
The placket is not a true placket, but a reinforced slash. There is a piece of fabric that is stitched to the sleeve, then slashed up the center and turned to the wrong side to finish the opening. Instead of hemming three sides of the small rectangle, I opted to stitch a rectangle of the fabric and a rectangle of silk organza together on three sides, turn it right side and top stitch it. I suppose that's a fiddly detail, but to me it is neater and cleaner.
I originally had intended to install the sleeves in the flat, before stitching either the sleeve seams or side seams. Because of the amount of ease in the sleeve cap, I decided not to with this shirt. Instead I made French seams, and inserted the sleeves, easing the caps with what I call the "hundred pin" method. There really are not one hundred pins in the sleeve cap, but it is a nod to the late Charles Kleibacker and that photo in Threads where a v-neck was being eased onto a stabilizing strip of fabric and there were many, many pins, 1/8" or less apart, precisely and carefully easing that neckline. I'd never tried this method, and I know Ann did a great post on easing the sleeve cap with this method and uses it with success, so why not give it a try?
It worked beautifully and the sleeves are perfect. To finish the sleeve seams, I stitched with a smaller stitch setting, 1/4" away from the seam line in the seam allowances and trimmed the allowance off close to the second stitching. This double seam is strong and a neat finish. I did not want the bulk of a binding, and I've used this method in children's clothes in the past with good success.
All that's left is the cuffs, buttonholes and buttons!
Parting Shot: One More Shelf. I'm working on reorganizing the sewing area, and I've one more shelf of fabrics to work on. All the shelves looked like the bottom shelf before I started organizing and cleaning up. I haven't reorganized in a while and the beginning of the year is a good time to do so!
10 comments:
I'll have to try this pin easing technique. Sounds like it does give you allot of control over the easing.
I tried this method for the first time this weekend past and it worked a treat. I use a few different methods because I find that different fabric behaves differently with each method, but this one is simple and as Ann says, does give a lot of control.
I think 2010 is the year I may attempt a classic white shirt, so I'm glad you are forging the way here.
I learned the "100 pin" method when taking a European hand-tailoring class. I like to use it particularly with wool, which eases with those pins like magic. I don't use it on hard fabrics though. It's good to know many techniques.
I have used and like this pin method as well. I also often use the same treatment you did on your seams. Its sturdy and has served me well too. It will be great fun to watch your blouse projects unfold.
(singing) I can't wait to see the blouse! And by the way (Parting Shot), it IS National Clean Your Closets month!
Where's Wellie?!? I expected to see him on one of your shelves! My cats always find a way into the middle of anything I'm working on.
Sherry in Little Rock
Can you please come over and organize my sewing room as well?
In the 1970s there was a TV "learn how to dressmake" series on BBC TV here in the UK presented by someone called Ann Ladbury, who was said to come from a tailoring family. She set in sleeves in the round by sewing the lower (uneased) part of both sleeves into their armholes. She said to do both immediately one after the other because then they were more likely to come out identical. The she eased in the upper part with pins, starting from the shoulder mark, halving the ease and putting a pin in middle, then halving the space between the pins, and keeping going till you have a pin about every 8th to 16th inch. Then hand baste with small basting stitches, then sew. Easier to do than describe, and it's what I've done ever since. It works for me and it obviously does for you too. That shirt is beginning to look really good, and I like the idea for neatening the slash facing.
Anne Frances
I haven't tried the 100-pin method but it's nice to see that someone else uses "quilter's" pins for garment sewing. I just love the length of them. They would be perfect if they were a little finer but still as long.
Your shirt is coming along beautifully. :-)
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