The Great Vintage Shirt Project - Advance 6083
The next part of the blouse to be made in the front inset.
The pattern designers did a good job with this feature - the outside is cut on the bias for that neat chevron effect, but the facing is cut on the straight of grain for stabilization. I would have done this had the pattern not had separate pattern pieces for the outside and the facing. I've chosen to interface this blouse with silk organza rather than a fusible interfacing. I've used the organza before and really like the shaping it provides.
I did deviate from the instructions a bit when inserting the inset. The original instructions have you insert it with a felled seam by turning under the seam allowances on the front pieces, placing the inset underneath and top stitching the two sections together.
I wanted a neater finish on the inside with no visible seam allowances, so I stitch the two pieces together, leaving the facing free and then hand stitched the facing over the seam allowances. You can see the inside below.
I both like and dislike the little triangle on the inset. I think it is a cool design feature, but it isn't a perfect triangle. That bothers me. It wasn't originally drafted as a perfect triangle, either, because I checked to see if I was crazy or if I hadn't carefully cut out the pieces. No, it isn't even:
I'm not sure if I'm going to fix it at this point, as this is the way the pattern was originally drafted. I can easily open up the facing and fix the triangles. I will revisit the idea once I finish the collar, give the whole thing a press and see what I have.
I also got the collar attached. This collar does not have a separate collar stand, but is just attached to the neck opening. I've also interfaced this with silk organza. It is all finished but a little bit of hand stitching on the facing.
This is what I have so far (the neck on my dressform is bigger than mine, so the blouse won't close at center front!):
Next: Either fix the triangles or work on the sleeves!
Q/A: Vicki wanted to know a couple of things: "Did you muslin the shirt first? Or just check the shoulders and flat measure? And with your tucks did you try and match the stripes?" No, I didn't make a muslin. I know that a bust 32 in vintage patterns fits me. By the measurements, I should be making a bust 34, but since I'm petite and have a small neck/shoulders, I know a 32 fits better. I did not try to match the stripes with the tucks; I figured that because the tucks were so small - 1/4" - that it was best to keep what little sanity I have left and save it for matching the important stuff.
Parting Shot: Being Cute. My son saw Wellie sleeping the other day and had to add his own little touch to the scene.