Patrones #282, Model #36

Make and Insert a Lining

I finally got the lining made and in the dress. It seems like this has been a slow process, because I stopped work on the dress to make the fleece top for my husband and then got a few last minute alterations for a wedding this weekend.

So here's the lining, note that the side seams are not sewn, just like the dress:

I can think of three ways to insert a lining into a sleeveless garment, and I only really like one of them. With the other two methods, you are left fighting to finish a very small area in the shoulder somewhere. Not exactly fun, if you ask me. Inserting the lining is actually pretty easy, *if you have not sewn the center back seam*. If you have sewn the center back seam, it isn't that much more difficult, but is not as straightforward.

Here's how:

Step One. Place the garment and lining right sides together and pin together at the neck edge. Stitch and clip the seam. Do not turn and press yet. You can see both the neck edges and shoulder edges pinned in the photo below.


Step Two. With right sides together pin garment lining together and stitch from the underarm up and over the shoulder seam and back down the the other underarm. Repeat for the other side. Trim and clip seams.

Step Three. Turn garment to right side by pulling the backs through the shoulder area to the front. Press neck edge and armhole edges. Understitch if desired.

So far, you should have a garment without side seams:


Step Four. Open out garment at sides and pin lining side seam together, right sides together. Continue pinning past the underarm all the way to the hem of the garment. This is one really long seam from the hem of the garment all the way to the hem of the lining. Stitch and press. Repeat for the other side.


That's it, the lining is in and you didn't have to deal with finishing the shoulders. Now you can finish the center back seam/zipper.

Now, what do you do if you've sewn that center back seam and/or already inserted the zipper. I will tell you that you will not be able to pull those backs through the shoulder to the front. It just won't work. You'll have to make a slight departure from the method above.

Step One is the same, except go ahead and turn the garment right side out and press the neck edge.

Step Two. Place the garment flat, wrong sides together and the garment armhole facing you as shown below.


At the shoulder seam, turn in the seam allowances on both the garment and facing, as it would look in a finish garment. Pin these together and place the armhole back on the table.


Step Three. Lift up one side of the garment (either front or back) and find the shoulder seam you just pinned.


Carefully turn the garment to the wrong side at the pinned shoulder seam. This is what it will look like:

Holding onto the matched shoulder seams, carefully take out the pin and place it on the inside (or wrong sides) at the seam.


Continue matching one half of the armhole from the shoulder seam to the underarm, right sides together, pinning from the shoulder seam to the underarm on the one side only. This can be a awkward with the layers, but it does work.


Step Four. Stitch from the shoulder seam to the underarm on the one side only. This is how it looks now - the one side is done, but the other is not.

Step Five. Repeat Steps Three and Four, for the other half of the armhole - either front or back, whatever you didn't do the first time.

Step Six. Repeat Step Three through Five for the other side of the garment.

Step Seven. This step is the same as Step Four - pin and stitch the side seams.

Right now, the dress only needs a hem - I think I can get that done either tonight or tomorrow!

Parting Shot: Scarf Progress. I've made a little progress on the scarf. I am into the third ball of yarn at this point. I'm going to knit through four balls of yarn and see how long it is and then decide if I want it longer or if I'm done. Either way, I'll be adding fringe!