Saturday, August 08, 2009

The Jacket From Stefan's

I don't have a good name for this jacket yet, so for right now, we'll call it The Jacket From Stefan's, which is where I bought it in Atlanta, GA. It is made from black wool with a twill weave and is lined in a black silk crepe.

The label inside says, "Mayme McCampbell Knoxville".

The jacket has found bound buttonholes:


The peplum area is unique because of what I'm going to call fins created by the cut of the panels that make up the body of the jacket. There are four on each side.

They are tacked together at the hem, and with the lining itself being smooth, with no fins, as you can see from the photo below.


The sleeves are beautifully cut and shaped to fit the natural curve of the arm - something you don't often see these days.

The collar is beautifully shaped and rolled. The undercollar was cut in two pieces, on the bias at center and a bit smaller than the upper collar because of the way the upper collar has rolled under properly in the photo below.

The hem is loose at the fronts, which I will repair, but it was nice because I could get to see some of the interior of the jacket. You can see the hair canvas below that was used in the fronts and collar for shaping and support.

The jacket has some built up shoulder pads, not unusual for a 1940's or 1950's jacket. They actually help to further the vision of a very tiny waist. You can see that there is a layer of thicker grey wool and other layers of something under muslin stitched to it.

This jacket really is beautiful, not only from an aesthetic point of view, but also from a construction point of view. Not to mention that it fits me almost as if it were made for me. I need to make some more jackets with this sort of overall shaping for myself - I haven't worn a jacket like this a while, and was surprised at the figure reflected back at myself in the mirror at Stefan's. Maybe one in red for the winter to go with that pretty red fabric I picked up at Kashi's last time I was in NYC.

Parting Shot: Meet Wellington. This is Wellington, our newest cat. We adopted him today from our local shelter - all of our pets are rescued animals. He a really lovely orange cat, a couple of years old and pretty mellow. We'll see how he does with the girls in the next few days!

20 comments:

Shannon said...

Thanks for showing all the nifty jacket details - I love the "insider" view!

Hello Wellington! What a cutie!

Vicki said...

what a gorgeous jacket. I definately think you need another one in red ;)

Nancy (nanflan) said...

That jacket is quite a find! Absolutely gorgeous. I look forward to seeing your take on it because I can see you making one for yourself and as part of a competition ensemble.

Wellington is a handsome boy, I hope he and the girls get along.

Pam~Off The Cuff ~ said...

What a fabulous jacket! The details are so lovely..thanks for sharing this with us!

Vicki W said...

I am very partial to yellow cats so I hope they all get along well!

Linda T said...

And isn't he a handsome feline! I'm sure he feels he's hit the lottery getting to call your place 'home.'

Cennetta said...

Beautiful jacket. Thanks for the peek inside and out. Your newest family member is adorable.

connie B said...

That is a lovely made jacket. And hello to the new kitty! He quite resembles our DragonBaby

Lori said...

Wonderful jacket with great details.

delaïdo said...

Hello new, orange kitty!

I love the peplum. I love peplums in general, but I really love the way this one is constructed. I think they might be called "godets" instead of fins. I read about godets in "The Art of Manipulating Fabric."
godet page in Google Books

Reethi said...

Awww... new kitty. Adorable!

Trudy Callan said...

The construction details of this jacket are amazing. How awesome that you found it and that it fits you so perfectly. I'm sure it looks great on you.

Please tell your son that I love his quilt. He did a fantastic job.

Wellington is very cute. I hope he has a smooth transition into the family. It looks like your husband really loves him already.

I also wanted to thank you for encouraging my daughter on her blog, Super Stitches, at www.sewingsister.blogspot.com. She loves your blog, and was so happy to hear from you.

Tany said...

WOW! My favorite detail is the peplum; it's really beautiful and original! Thanks for sharing all the details!

Wellington is a very lucky cat who will be loved and well taken care of.

Sue B said...

that jacket is gorgeous. I wonder though - is the detail of the curve in the sleeve an indication that the jacket was custom made for someone in particular?

Anonymous said...

Found this on the internet and thought you might be interested to see where your jacket was made. 500 Block of Gay Street. This shows a great old photo circa 1937.
http://blogs.metropulse.com/saving_places/2009/06/500-block-of-gay-street---then.html

Gail said...

Sigh! I wish store bought clothing was so well constructed these days. It is such a stylish piece, wear it with pride.

patsijean said...

Hi, Wellington. What a handsome name for a handsome kitty. You are going to like it in your new home.

The jacket is beautiful My mother ran the Pentagon office of one of our Generals during WWII (she never revealed a secret because she had "taken an oath") and one of the women she worked with said that if one acquired 2 quality suits a year she would always be well dressed.

BConky said...

Wellington looks like a fine chap.

Lindsay T said...

Summerset, thanks so much for this peek at your fabulous vintage find. I wore a jacket like this in a play I did in high school; wish I still had it. Love the label.

And what a great cat! I am still catless after the passing of my beloved kitty a year ago, but I may not be able to hold out...

Sherry said...

Hi, Summerset! Shortly after you posted about your jacket, I happened to watch an old movie from the early 1940s. It was so much fun to pay close attention to the clothes that Betty Davis wore! Your blog has given me a greater appreciation for the quality and beauty of those fashions.

Sherry in Little Rock