Inside the Envelope

Vogue Paris Original #1897, Yves Saint Laurent

I promised a peek inside the envelope of this one, so here it is. This one was published in the late 60's, and after some research, I'm going to strongly guess 1968. The reason for this is because pattern #1896 was also a YSL and was featured in the Vogue Pattern Book Feb./Mar. 1968. In addition to that, the hair styles and shoes also indicate to me the late 1960's.

While the design is not a fussy or unusually draped 40's or 50's cocktail gown, this design is still full of couture details. You can see from the pattern pieces below the simple shapes of the ensemble.

The first thing I found inside the envelope was the sew in label and a card to mail away for a subscription to the "fashion-packed issues of Vogue Pattern Book International". As a "BONUS! I earn 1 extra free issue by sending payment with my order." A mere $3.50 order, might I add. This one also has the sew in Vogue Paris Original label. Once you were done sewing your creation in grand couture style, you could sew a label in it.

Couture details start with the fabrics and notions and this outfit is no exception. In addition to fashion fabric and lining, the dress calls for two different types of underlining, one soft and one crisp; also note the notions needed:

The underlinings are basted to the wrong side of the fashion fabric, and the instructions are concise and clear about what needs to be basted and how to do it:

Did you note the two 4" zippers in the notions list? These two little zippers are used in the sleeves. The sleeves are cut so narrow that the hand would not fit through, so a zipper is used to make it wide enough to put on.

The skirt hem is not only interfaced, but it also has horsehair to make it stand out a bit and keep the a-line shape. The fabrics suggested for the ensemble include moire, velvet, ottoman and brocade, so this makes sense, as these are heavier fabrics. Note too, that the ends of the horsehair braid where they meet are finished with bias binding - that stuff can be stiff and scratchy if not covered. The hem is then turned up and stitched in place, covering up the interfacing and horsehair.

The cape, too, has interesting details. The front interfacing neck darts are not stitched, but rather trimmed, abutted and reinforced with seam binding. It is less bulky and more balanced to stitch the dart this way.

The hem for the cape has details and specific instructions, too. Notice the instructions after stitching the hem to the underlining only. It says: To press, hold iron over hem. Steam, never resting iron on fabric. Pat lightly with pounder or ruler. This makes for a softer edge rather than the hard crease that is produced when a hem is flattened by steam and the weight of the iron.

The main feature of the cape is of course, the optional fur trim. Suggested furs include: sable mink, fox or rabbit. Do note, that if you don't prefer to make the optional yourself, you can always have the furrier do it.

The first thing that is done is that a taffeta stay is made in the shape of the trim. You can see that in the bottom of the photo above. The edges are turned in and basted in placed. The fur pelts are then shaped. Note that fur has a nap and in order for the fur to lie in the correct direction down each side of the cape, it will need to be cut and reassembled at the center back neck.

The fur is then eased into the proper shape, note that where it turns the corner at the neck edge, a wedge has been removed and the edges sewn together. The taffeta stay is then stitched to the pelt side of the fur. Once that is done, the trim is hand sewn around all the cape edges.

Interesting pattern, with details you don't always see today, especially the fur.

Tomorrow - Garden Path update!

Parting Shot: Fire Pit, V 2.0. My husband rebuilt the fire pit over the weekend. It really is composed of cinder blocks, but looks more natural in the ring shape and with the other natural rocks around it. It is a better design for fires, too since there is better airflow around and through the pit. We tested it Sunday night and it works much better than the old one.