Friday, May 08, 2009

Garden Path - Skirt - Part II

The Muslin



Paisleyapron had it right when she said that the pockets for this skirt were pretty shallow. Take a look:

They're good for a lipstick and not much else. I will redraft that for a much more useful pocket, but that isn't the only thing I'm going to change. Before I get to what I'm doing, take a look at the pattern piece and then the instructions.

Do you see what is going on here? The skirt is cut from one very large rectangle on the fold, with the pockets being formed and inserted where side seams would be. There is a center back seam, where the zipper would be inserted.

The corner is then reinforced and clipped:

The pocket is added and turned to the inside:

Then the pocket bag/front is added and stitched to the remaining vertical edge of the opening:

While that is an interesting construction, it can be problematic at that reinforcement point shown in the first construction photo. I'm thinking it might be prone to shredding, especially in the silk. Not something I can take a risk on with this outfit.

My solution is to redraft the skirt to include a side seam. This way the pockets can be made as regular slant pockets are made for skirts and trousers. I've eliminated the center back seam and put the zipper into the side seam. The reason for this is so that I can quilt the back as one large piece and only have to put in darts.

The side seams definitely will need some adjusting between hip and waist. The hips fit, but as usual, the waist is too large. No surprise, it just will have to be worked on. I'll take out the excess in the side seams and then adjust the pocket openings and back darts so that they are not pulled too much toward the side seams.

Usually I don't work on the skirt this early in the project. This time, I am progressing a little more quickly than anticipated now that I am actually working on the project. I am in the mood to quilt, so I want to have the skirt pieces ready to quilt next week, when I am done quilting the jacket sections.

Weird Fact of the Day: All three patterns for GP: the skirt, blouse and jacket - two from Simplicity and one from Butterick were all published in 1952! I've never had that happen when using multiple patterns for an ensemble.

Parting Shot: Approval. Oh yes, Kiwi approves of the new project. So nice of my cat to let me know I can continue, however she was required to leave immediately after approval.

6 comments:

Trudy Callan said...

So good to know that kiwi approves.

www.sewingwithtrudy.blogspot.com

Marianne said...

While I can understand that this pattern is not suitable for your project re. pockets, it's a wonderful pattern for patterned fabrics. Maybe the pockets are so small because of the construction taking the weak point at the reinforcement into consideration. The pockets were really only meant for carrying a very dainty, matching handkerchief. My mother would take great care always have a handkerchief that matched her outfit if she carried one in her pocket or her bag if it went in there. Thank you for sharing your creative process.

Sigrid said...

Lovely pattern, I think you're right changing to side seams.

Bunny said...

I think the side seam is a great idea also. Was this layout on the cross?

Tany said...

Nice call on the side seams! There's no point in risking shredding on this project!

paco peralta said...

I love this skirt, very much. I think there is a current version by Donna Karan. Good design endures through time, really.

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