Thursday, March 26, 2009

Easter Dress - Part 3

Pleats and Trim


Today I was able to work more on the pleats and the front trim. Below you can see the front from yesterday, all pleated and pressed:

Since the dress front was ready, I needed to work on the lining. I decided the lining needed a small facing of green right along the front in the center of the neckline between the yokes. I wanted to keep the color consistent all along the neckline edge should any of the inside show. To add a facing for this type of bodice, this is what I did. First, I pleated the lining and then cut a strip of the green silk and pressed under one edge. You can see it just laid in place below.

Second, I pinned it in place and stitched the folded edge to the lining:

This lining piece with attached facing is now assembled with the front and yokes as I did the back. After pressing (and a few alterations, keep reading for that), I understitched the facing to keep it from rolling out.

This afternoon when my daughter came home from school, I tried on what I had assembled so far. This was primarily to determine where she wanted the trim to be positioned. I also checked the neckline at the same time, and needless to say, it wasn't bra friendly. As you can see from the photo below, I ended up taking out a little over 2", which is more than I thought it would be when I was pinning it up.

Now, of course, you know that taking that much out of the yoke is also taking that much out of the front armhole. I then had to recut the armhole to make it match the back and the original pattern:

This in turn will change the length of the side seam, but I will fix that when stitch the side seams and make the hems. I can simply trim off the amount at the bottom edge of the back.

Lastly today, I was able to stitch the trim in place, here it is all ready to stitch:

Here is the front, complete with alterations and trim:

I still need to make the ties and stitch the side seams. I need to check with my daughter to see if she wants ties that make a knot or a bow. Tomorrow I should get that done, along with the hems, and then I will only have the sleeves to make.

Parting Shot: Seen Better Days! Simplicity 4275 from 1953, below, has definitely seen better days. The pieces and instructions are all there, so it really isn't a problem. This is your basic fitted round necked bodice with peter pan collar and large skirt sort of vintage pattern, although it does have a square neck and a sleeve variation. My daughter likes the sleeveless square neck version.

17 comments:

paco peralta said...

very nice Summerset. Working together (mother and daughter), which ensures very good results.

greetings, Paco

Susan said...

Very impressive! The pleats were done so meticulously.

Vicki said...

This is going to be another very pretty dress. It is a lovely ritual to make DD an Easter dress each year.

gwensews said...

Good alteration. Looks like this dress will turn out beautifully.

Allison Ann Aller said...

You have so much knowledge in your fingertips that you can just adjust and problem solve as you go along.
Very cool to watch!

Your daughter will treasure these dressmaking memories....as will you when she is all grown up.

Lory said...

It's looking very pretty. And that trim is gorgeous.

Hugs,
Lory

C said...

Here is a link to a better picture of your pattern. http://vintagepatterns.wikia.com/wiki/Image:S4275-10.jpg
Isn't neat that we can resurrect something with a few keystrokes these days.

The Easter dress is going to be lovely.

Cyndi

brocadegoddess said...

Your daughter has excellent taste. Both in regards to her vintage choices, and her Easter dress, which promises to be stunning.

You are making me hope even harder (which is difficult to do) that when I start having children I have a girl!

madhatter said...

oh, this dress will be gorgeous!

Elaray said...

I always love reading about the sewing you do for your children. It is so special that you make your daughter's Easter dresses. I overheard my daughter telling someone I'd made all her dresses and she said it with pride. That's like gold for a mom! I also remember a dress my mom made for me when I was very young. My mom died when I was seven and it's one of the few memories I have of her. Your children will remember these clothes forever.

Bunny said...

The dress is gorgeous. How wonderful to share your love of sewing, pretty dresses, and vintage clothing with your daughter. What a joy!

Thistledew Farm said...

I dropped over from Salina's site - what a pretty dress - you are definately a perfectionist! What an ambitious project! You go girl!

Myra said...

It's going to be pretty. BTW, you were using buttonhole elastic that was recycled. That's what I do, too, but I found some resources on ebay and internet, but some are more expensive than others and shipping outrageous. I bought a 5 yd piece from an ebay seller for 5.95 + 1.95 shipping. Her id is sdenisehall and she has 3 more 5 yd increments available. That stuff is wonderful on kids clothes!

Lindsay T said...

Pretty, pretty, pretty. I miss outfitting my daughter in Easter dresses. I'll just have to hope for a granddaughter in due time!

Brenda said...

You do beautiful work. I love reading your descriptions and seeing the sewing details. You are very good about answering questions. So, if you please, how necessary or how valuable is a dress form? I have never used one but many blog sewers do. How close can a dress form really be to an individuals shape unless it is custom made? Thanks!

Cennetta said...

Thanks for sharing the details. The dress is lovely.

Tany said...

The dress is turning out beautifully!