Wrapping it Up
Again, there's been an interesting response to these tracing posts. There is definitely a marked difference between those who learned how to sew in the US versus those who learned to sew elsewhere, mainly in Europe. I got a few great comments regarding yesterday's post, so I thought I would share them and a few other little tidbits.
First, from LindsayT,(one of the lucky one who has access to the wonderful resources of NYC!) a description of how she traces patterns. This is very clever and I think is good if you're unsure about how well you'll be able to see through tissue or tracing paper. "When I trace BWOF I use layers: a large sheet of carbon paper I got at FIT, face up; tracing paper; then BWOF pattern on top. I use a double tracing wheel, which incorporates the SA, and I trace the BWOF pattern. Works for me... " Try it! It might work for you, too!
From Elaray, this tip regarding adding hem allowances, "Tip: After I trace the pieces and make any necessary adjustments, I use a compass to add hem and seam allowances. Spread the compass out to the desired width, then run the pointed end along the seam line. The pencil end will mark the cutting line." Smart and worth a try!
Regarding reading your patterns thoroughly, do make note of what pieces to cut from interfacing. How do you know what needs to be interfaced? BWOF makes that easy, I can not speak for the other pattern magazines, but I know that information is not given in Patrones. You'll need to check the cutting diagram in BWOF. All of those pieces and portions of pieces shaded in grey are to be interfaced. You, of course, may chose to interface other areas as needed depending on style and fabric choices.
Lastly, what do you do with a traced pattern when you're done with it? You're going to have to store them somehow. If you really love the pattern and will make it a TNT, you'll probably want to trace it off to a heavier paper so that it can be reused many times. If you're like me and rarely make the same pattern twice, you'll want to store them just in case you do need a quick pattern that has already been fitted. I fold the pieces neatly and place them in a ziplock bag, making sure one of the labels on a pattern piece faces outward. I also write what fabric I made it out of and what that pattern makes. The sample below is not the best, as this one was a self-drafted pattern, which is the Knipmode side button pleated skirt. Since I've only made one other Knipmode skirt, this label will do. All of the bags go into small storage bins along with my other patterns.
Q/A: Bunny had a few questions regarding BWOF. First, "is there any thing I need to know about the sizing,ie, I use my upper bust for tops from US patterns." The nice thing about BWOF is that the sizing is consistent. It seems that the sizing in US patterns seems to wildly fluctuate as well as the amount of ease. BWOF is consistent with their sizes, so I would go by the bust measurement for all tops, and by the hip measurement for skirts and trousers. As far as petite measurements, I usually remove 1" from the sleeves and bodice and this is consistent with changes I make to US patterns. Be aware that there is usually a petite sized pattern printed every month, with shorter arm and torso lengths. This is a case where you probably should make a muslin to get the fit right, after a while you will know your changes for BWOF and it will not be as critical."Next, where I see "ins" in parentheses, I assume this is inches. Correct?" Yes, it is inches. These patterns are printed first in metric, and then because BWOF is so nice they go ahead and give us the conversions in inches.
Tomorrow: More BOH! I'll share with you some more of the dress details. The photo shoot post will be either Friday or Saturday, so hang in there!
Parting Shot: Happy Birthday! My son's birthday is this week, so we celebrated with family over the weekend. Here he is blowing out the candles. He wanted something with peanut butter, so I made him a peanut butter and chocolate pie.
16 comments:
Another thing I do ( if I remember) is to make a scan/copy of the linedrawing & the finished model and put the sheet into the ziplock bag incl. all infos about the pattern (like which issue, which no., which size)
Like Tini said in her last comment, I am tracing anything. (A Vogue pattern costs 17,50 - 19,50 EUR at the moment. If you buy it in Germany...)
What works best for me is thicker clear plastic protective sheet as you would use for protecting your floor and furniture when painting walls. Together with a labeling pen for DVDs (they exist with very fine tips). It is inexpensive and very long lasting (I have traced patterns used more than ten times without any problem.)
And they fold relatively flat into sheet protectors, which have already the punches to put them in large ring binders and can therefore easily be stored on a shelf. (Usually I use one of these bags for the original pattern and instructions and a second one for my traced version and if there are further altered versions they get a protector of their own.)
But plastic is a matter of taste, some like it, others hate it. One has to try...
I save my patterns like you do. I am trying to remember to copy all line drawings (summary page) and keep them in a lever arch file for browsing.
As a side note I trace the pattern using my chest measurement rather than bust and it seems to work fine.
Yum! Birthday pie is my kind of "cake"!
Thanks so much for answering my feeble questions. I have decided to dive right in. I am making the jacket in the February issue that is the pink one with all the directions, forget what they call it. It has "poacher's pockets". Now if I can just remember what to do with those seams...........
My son's favorite combination is also chocolate and peanut butter, and we have some form of it for his birthday every year.
Another reason I like my tracing method is that I can use heavier tracing paper, so my patterns are reusable.
Hi Summerset. I have never left a comment before, but I read your blog everyday. I really enjoy it. You know my mom Leslie Tallaksen she is who shared your blog with me. Well also a suggestion with storing. I used to be an Avon rep. and we had money collection envelopes they are the perfect size for a complete discription on the front of the envelope and also I take a picture of my finished project (mostly my kids wearing it) and tape it to the front of the envelope.(you can always ask any Avon rep for these) Just thought you and your friends might need more storage space like most of us do. Keep up the great work I really enjoy it.
Thanks for this series. I'm just considering moving into BWOF, so it was really helpful. I do have one question about your advice to use the bust measurement instead of high bust. I usually (in American patterns) choose size by my high bust measurement and then do a FBA. Otherwise the rest of the garment is too big. Wouldn't this be the same with BWOF? Would it really work to choose by bust size if you're large busted relative to your frame (or at least have over a B-cup)? Are European patterns cut bustier?
Congratulations to your son's birthday!
Thanks for sharing this in depth tutorial on tracing and using "other than Big 4" patterns. I love Burda and Ottobre and don't mind tracing. In fact, I usually trace Big 4 patterns as well--lets me make changes to the pattern without tampering with the original pattern sheets. My youngest DGS is very long in the torso so I am used to cutting and pasting his patterns to add 3-4 inches of length to his little shirts! I will certainly return to this series of entries when I have tracing questions!
I, too, trace absolutely everything! I actually do mine a different way and lay brown kraft paper on a carpeted floor, and put the pttern sheet on top, then just go around all the edges with my serrated tracing wheel, using a Sharpie to add in info later. It's a method that works extremely well for me! I wrote a post showing exactly how I trace a pattern here.
While reading this entry, I realized what a dummy I am - I already trace everything! My son just moved into a 2T, so I trace because next month I'm sure he'll be wearing a 3T! I have to do FBAs on all my patterns, so I trace, just in case I really mess things up. Why on earth would I be afraid of BWOF?
Thank you very much for the tutorial!
Summerset .- thanks, more interesting ideas about the use and location of patterns, etc, etc.
Happy birthday for your child. I also celebrated my birthday last Sunday, so we are both a year older (in a different way ... sniff).
greetings, Paco
I use my upper bust measurement and an fba because I am a DD cup. This works fine for me. I still have to do a narrow shoulder adjustment. I agree about the consistency of Burda, I almost always make exactly the same adjustments on them, which is not the case in the big 4. Great series.
Ohhh, I'm so ssorry I'm late for wishing your son a Happy Birthday... I know it must ave been a great day for him and the family!
Thank you SO much for going in depth about BWOF! I was unsure because I didn't understand how all patterns could be in the magazine, then I bought one off of ebay and it scared me to death! After reading your blogs now I'm inspired to give it a try! Thanks again!
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