Tracing Patterns - Part Three
Wrapping it Up
Again, there's been an interesting response to these tracing posts. There is definitely a marked difference between those who learned how to sew in the US versus those who learned to sew elsewhere, mainly in Europe. I got a few great comments regarding yesterday's post, so I thought I would share them and a few other little tidbits.
First, from LindsayT,(one of the lucky one who has access to the wonderful resources of NYC!) a description of how she traces patterns. This is very clever and I think is good if you're unsure about how well you'll be able to see through tissue or tracing paper. "When I trace BWOF I use layers: a large sheet of carbon paper I got at FIT, face up; tracing paper; then BWOF pattern on top. I use a double tracing wheel, which incorporates the SA, and I trace the BWOF pattern. Works for me... " Try it! It might work for you, too!
From Elaray, this tip regarding adding hem allowances, "Tip: After I trace the pieces and make any necessary adjustments, I use a compass to add hem and seam allowances. Spread the compass out to the desired width, then run the pointed end along the seam line. The pencil end will mark the cutting line." Smart and worth a try!
Regarding reading your patterns thoroughly, do make note of what pieces to cut from interfacing. How do you know what needs to be interfaced? BWOF makes that easy, I can not speak for the other pattern magazines, but I know that information is not given in Patrones. You'll need to check the cutting diagram in BWOF. All of those pieces and portions of pieces shaded in grey are to be interfaced. You, of course, may chose to interface other areas as needed depending on style and fabric choices.
Lastly, what do you do with a traced pattern when you're done with it? You're going to have to store them somehow. If you really love the pattern and will make it a TNT, you'll probably want to trace it off to a heavier paper so that it can be reused many times. If you're like me and rarely make the same pattern twice, you'll want to store them just in case you do need a quick pattern that has already been fitted. I fold the pieces neatly and place them in a ziplock bag, making sure one of the labels on a pattern piece faces outward. I also write what fabric I made it out of and what that pattern makes. The sample below is not the best, as this one was a self-drafted pattern, which is the Knipmode side button pleated skirt. Since I've only made one other Knipmode skirt, this label will do. All of the bags go into small storage bins along with my other patterns.
Q/A: Bunny had a few questions regarding BWOF. First, "is there any thing I need to know about the sizing,ie, I use my upper bust for tops from US patterns." The nice thing about BWOF is that the sizing is consistent. It seems that the sizing in US patterns seems to wildly fluctuate as well as the amount of ease. BWOF is consistent with their sizes, so I would go by the bust measurement for all tops, and by the hip measurement for skirts and trousers. As far as petite measurements, I usually remove 1" from the sleeves and bodice and this is consistent with changes I make to US patterns. Be aware that there is usually a petite sized pattern printed every month, with shorter arm and torso lengths. This is a case where you probably should make a muslin to get the fit right, after a while you will know your changes for BWOF and it will not be as critical.
"Next, where I see "ins" in parentheses, I assume this is inches. Correct?" Yes, it is inches. These patterns are printed first in metric, and then because BWOF is so nice they go ahead and give us the conversions in inches.
Tomorrow: More BOH! I'll share with you some more of the dress details. The photo shoot post will be either Friday or Saturday, so hang in there!
Parting Shot: Happy Birthday! My son's birthday is this week, so we celebrated with family over the weekend. Here he is blowing out the candles. He wanted something with peanut butter, so I made him a peanut butter and chocolate pie.