Tuesday, February 10, 2009

Black Casual Trousers

Patrones #176, Model #2

I finally finished this pair of trousers, because there seems to have been this other little project called BOH that took some of my time last week. These trousers have been sitting around in my studio in some phase of construction or other for over a week. I know that doesn't seem like long to you, but I can't stand not finishing projects. If it is cut, it will be sewn.

These trouser are made from black corduroy, which does not photograph terribly well, so here is a better shot of some of details.

So let me give you some notes about these trousers. First, they are very low waisted. I lengthened the crotch depth by 1" (2cm) and used smaller seam allowances than planned on the waistband. That's a measurement you ought to check when making trousers! With some of the foreign pattern magazines, you can not always see those sorts of details in the photographs, and the line drawings may or may not be of help.

Second, they are fairly straight legged. This style of trouser is problematic for me, as I have a pretty dramatic hip to waist ratio (great for for wasp waisted 50's dresses, not so great for modern trousers!) and I'm short. Getting the thighs big enough sometimes means a very wide trouser leg. A wide trouser leg makes me look shorter than I already am, sort of like a little rectangle or even a square. Not an easy situation to win, but I think these trousers are some of the best of this style that I've made. For fitting, I used my general procedure of putting in the pockets, zipper and inseams, attaching all four pieces of the waistband separately (I always use a center back seam on the waistband) and basting the remaining crotch seam and side seams. I then can fit the hip curve and the center back just right.

Overall, I'm pleased with these and hope to wear them out with my husband on Monday along with a new jacket, BWOF 1/09 #122 made of the fabric shown below. He has the day off and the kids are in school. ;) I'll show you the whole outfit when I get it done.


Tomorrow: a special BOH announcement!

Q/A: Beth asked this a while ago during the pattern tracing series, and I haven't had a relevant post to respond with an answer. I didn't forget, I just like to group things on related posts. Anyway, she asked, "I usually (in American patterns) choose size by my high bust measurement and then do a FBA. Otherwise the rest of the garment is too big. Wouldn't this be the same with BWOF? Would it really work to choose by bust size if you're large busted relative to your frame (or at least have over a B-cup)? Are European patterns cut bustier? " BWOF is not cut any bustier that I've noticed. Both Vicki and Nancy K have used the high bust measurement and and Nancy K has done the FBA on BWOF and have had good results, so you should be able to do it, too. Just make a muslin first to try it out.


Parting Shot: Bye-Bye Birdies. BOH is off to the Mid-Atlantic Quilt Show. I had a sick feeling handing this one over to the UPS people, just like with American Beauty. I've never had a problem with UPS, but you never know . . .

12 comments:

Cennetta said...

Great start to a nice "date" with DH outfit. The four piece waist band method is the best.

I would be a little apprehensive about handing over my work of art to the UPS guy too.

Vicki said...

I just had a sick feeling about BOH being sent via mail, so I can imagine how you must feel until you know it has arrived safely!
The new outfit is going to look great. Love that jacket fabric and the pattern is interesting too. Nice pants!

Bunny said...

I think some sort of blessing over the package is in order here! LOL!
The pants look great. I totally understand the petite waist hip ratio thing. It is also said if we peg the legs it emphasizes the waist hip thing more, so not sure there is a win anywhere here. Bottom line is they look great on you so keep doing whatever you do to achieve your fit.

Kristine said...

I think I'd lose sleep putting BOH in the mail, but I'm sure it will arrive safely! Looking forward to your jacket: I love the black/red/white combo!

Ann's Fashion Studio said...

The pants look great and I like the fabric for your jacket!

Erica B. said...

The pants look great! Love the jacket fabric!

Emily said...

OOooooh, do I sense a BOH postcard coming on??? Like Erica B., I looove the jacket fabric! Nice detailing on the pants, too.

Sigrid said...

Love your fabric for the jacket and looking very much forward to how it looks with the pattern you chose for it. I have a similar fabric, and can't decide on the pattern to use. Some inspiration is welcome.
The trousers are perfect. Wishing BOH a safe trip!

Berry said...

I keep my fingers crossed for UPS to deliver BOH safely.
I love the topstich detail on the trousers, really nice!

Pamela Erny said...

Love the pants...

...know what you mean about being short and finding just the "right" cut for wide leg pants.

...also keeping my fingers crossed that the BOH arrives safe and sound!

Pam ~Off The Cuff~

Teddylyn said...

Beautiful pants/trousers! These look fabulous! I know you will enjoy having a garment that fits your body and flatters as well. What a nice finish to your BOH saga. Enjoy!

Lynda in LV

Tany said...

The trousers look great; personally I'm quite fond of the straight legged style!

(Catching up after a week sick with the flu and another week with my Mom visiting from the Luxembourg)