Sleeve Heads and Other Stuff

Gwen asked a good question yesterday, "what is a sleeve head?". While sleeve heads are not used in every garment a person would ever make, they are very useful when needed.

A sleeve head is a separate piece of fabric sewn into the armscye (or armhole) that helps to support the shoulder cap portion of the sleeve. The most common applications are for tailored coats and jackets and for women's wear with puffy sleeves particularly those made of very lightweight fabrics. Remember the 80's and those huge sleeves? I bet you do, and whether you're smiling or groaning right now, sleeves heads were very important in keeping those sleeves nice and puffy. My wedding gown had them, too. (The sleeve heads *not* the super huge sleeves!)

Sleeve heads can be made of many materials. For coats and jackets, you can buy the pre-made kind, such as Els was able to provide for the GCSA packets that we purchased from Marji (Els cofirmed she helped Marji to get them - thank you!). You can also make your own from batting or wool. For less tailored wear, such as blouses, dresses and formal wear, sleeves heads can be made of nylon tulle, organza or similar fabrics that are stiff.

Sometimes there is a pattern piece, but you can make your own. To do so, cut out a football shaped piece of fabric that is at least twice as large as the section of armhole you're attaching it to.

Fold it in half and gather the long curved side.

Stitch it into the armhole, just inside the seam line on the seam allowance.

The sleeve head faces outward into the sleeve.

In the sample below, the shoulder on your left has the sleeve head and the shoulder on the right does not. You can see that the right side hangs a bit limply and does not stand out nicely as the left side does.

Q/A: Some of these are old and some new, but I'd better get them answered before they go unanswered too long.

Redgarding the REC labels, Alana wanted to know, "Do you only put them in your art garments, or do you use them for other garments, too?" I only used them for art garments. I do try to decorate the labels and use fonts that will coordinate with the project.

Bunny wanted to know, "Is Martin's getting rid of all their apparel fabric? I find that amazing and pray I am not missing a good sale." Yes, unfortunately, they are. I was in there just last week and there was still quite a bit of stuff. I think if they'd mark it down again, people might buy more of it. As of last week, everything was 30%, with some things marked down to 60% off.

Lastly, Marcelle, asked this question, and I think it would be great if all you left her some feedback, too. "I have a question, I'd like to start fashion design ( I'm currently in grade 11 ) as my project next year ( we do 9 months projects as part of our curriculm ) what clothes are the easiest to make for a beginner? " I'd say skirts, for one. Certain dress and blouse designs are not hard, either. As long as you are realistic about your current skills and are willing to learn, you will be amazed at what you are able to make. There are many patterns that are easy or written for beginners on the market, I know Simplicity makes some. Any more advice, any one?

Lastly, an announcement. I am going to Houston in three weeks. I have been notified that I have won a cash award at the International Quilt Festival with Midnight Garden, which I think means I placed or got another sort of award. I do not know which place or other award yet, but will find out that the Winner's Circle Celebration which I will be attending. I will only be going for the one event, on Oct. 28 and flying home the next day. I think I'll need to sew myself something to wear. I'll keep you posted on that.

Parting Shot: More Fall. From the pond, here are some really vibrant red leaves. Not all the leaves have turned yet, so while some trees look like this, others are still green.