The Zipper and Some Finishing
This dress has a side zipper, a feature not uncommon on vintage dresses. The side zipper provides the only way to getting the dress on if there is no closure at center front or back. The side zipper allows the dress to open up enough through the mid section to be put on.
For most side zippers, I do a hand picked zipper application. Occasionally I will put in an invisible zipper, but only if the top edge is at the armhole. Since this one wasn't and I couldn't find a green invisible zipper locally anyway, hand picking was the obvious choice. It is not worth my time or frustration to do a centered or lapped machine application. I don't like wrestling with the entire dress and I actually like hand stitching. I can actually put in a hand picked zipper in a side seam just as fast as I can by machine (counting all the time ripping out and redoing since I'm never happy with the first try), and I know it will be neat and right the first time.
Once the side seam is basted shut, the zipper is basted into place. The yellow thread is the basting thread. I then mark for distance away from the seam line that I want the stitches to be - in this case, 1/4" - that's the white line. The pins then mark exactly where each stitch will go, spaced exactly 1/2" apart. That distance may vary depending on the garment.
After everything is marked, I stitch up one side. I then mark and stitch the other side, pull out all the basting threads and I'm done. Here's the completed zipper from the inside:
I've also started the hand finishing. I chose to finish the armholes by hand. Since I was fully lining the bodice, I stitched the shoulders seams of both the bodice and lining and then attached them at the neckline. Each armhole was stay stitched, clipped, pinned together and fell stitched together. It sounds like a lot of work, but actually isn't. This is another place where I prefer hand finishing sleeveless armholes to following the directions in patterns for finishing those shoulder seams. I always find them awkward and in the end it is easier for me to hand stitch.
I just need to try on the dress one more time to make sure the darts look nice and then I will stitch down the lining on the inside and the dress will be ready for hemming this weekend.
Regarding the button choices, yes, I think see them on the dress would probably be best before chosing! Here are the choices:
#1: The chrysanthemum button (that's what I call them because that's what they look like to me!)
#2: The paisley button
I'm leaning toward the paisley button at the moment. It is more interesting to me.Parting Shot: Meet Mr. George. A few of you wanted to know who the designer was of the recent Advance pattern that I showed. Here he is, Mr. Eddy George of Casual Time of California.
20 comments:
Now that I've seen the buttons on the dress I like the paisley one better.
Question... do you have a previous post describing how you embellish your buttons?
You know, I hate the instructions for lined sleeveless bodices by machine and I never think to put it in by hand. This is so lovely and well within my hand stitching capabilities. Thanks for showing it. Do you make larger sas in the neck and armhole for the dress?
I vote for the paisley button too. It is lovely on the dress.
Your talents are so incredible. I like both buttons.
Both buttons are beautiful. But I think I prefer the first one....it seems to sparkle more.
Summerset - I have to admit that this is the only aspect of vintage dresses/outfits that I don't get - those side zippers! I can NOT see how it made it easier to get into an outfit and am constantly thinking of ways to add the zipper to the back because unzipping and stepping into a garment is just soooo much easier to me than slipping it over my head! Do you know why those side zippers were so popular?
I like the paisley button. Also, I like your instructions for inserting a side zipper. I have a pattern stashed away because I wasn't sure about that zipper. Now, I'm ready to pull it out. Thanks!
Summerset .- that nice progress. I, in my opinion, I tend to button chrysanthemum. I think it is more vintage, it's the only one whose flower bud is called "button". it is curious, right?. greetings, Paco
This dress is going to be lovely. I also really really like the chrysanthemum button. Thanks so much for the sewing inspiration.
I'm dying to say the paisley one, as I love paisley and dislike chrysanthemums! But I think the "chrysanthemum" button looks the best with the dress :D
I prefer the paisley, but like Ali I love paisley and am not too fond of chrysthanthemums, so I am biased.
I think both buttons look great. Your technique for hand picking the zipper is awesome. I do mine a little differently but I really like how you used the pins to measure out the stitches. Great idea!
Thanks for the ID on the designer. I think I'll give him a google and see what comes up.
Your proficiency in fitting especially is exhilarating!
You give me inspiration to try and make my sweatshirt project fit better too, by making a few alterations. This is no small thing for me!
I think the paisley button is better with the dress, certainly more interesting, as you said.
I also think the paisley button is a little more balanced on the dress. They eye will go first to the unusual feature of the dress, the tab on the top of the bodice. The paisley button also has top interest as you have it oriented in the picture, giving some balance and design sophistication.
I love the paisley button.
I share your frustration with zippers. I should just do a hand-picked one too. I am never satisfied with my first try either and would be better off just doing it by hand the first time! As for invisible zippers -- although I LOVE my Bernina for everything else, the foot for invisible zippers (which was around $30 if memory serves) leaves a LOT to be desired. I just don't like zippers I guess, but buttons, and buttonholes, I don't mind.
I don't know how everyone else is able to see much difference in the two buttons, and unlike usually, the button pictures don't show larger for me when I click them. From what I CAN tell, I like both! Please DO show the finished zipper (clickable, Please)
Beautiful progress. Thanks for explaining your process and use of a hand-picked zipper. I see many more hand-picked zippers in my future.
The dress is looking really good. Both buttons look great but I think my preference is to the paisley one, I can see why you found it hard to choose!
I won't forget those tips for handpicking a zipper! Thank you!
I don't mind hand sewing at all and the extra control taht it provides is worth it on many occasions
What an amazing dress this is going to be. I absolutely can't wait to see you in it in Houston! Such a talented girl you are. I'm learning. It's a very s l o w process for me. I spent more time ripping and screaming than I do sewing!!!
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