Bound Buttonhole Tutorial #2
This is bound buttonhole tutorial #2 because I've already done a bound buttonhole tutorial that is a slightly different method. Click here to see tutorial #1.
I found this method in the good old Reader's Digest Guide to Sewing, the tutorial here is pretty close to the method in the book. This method is actually a little easier than the other method I use and I actually like both - the difference lies in the application, namely the type of fabric that you use. This method is recommended for medium to lightweight fabrics that don't fray, but I seemed to be able to make them with the corduroy.
Step 1: Mark the fabric on both the front and the back for the buttonhole. Mark the center line of the buttonhole, two lines 1/8" on either side of the center line and both end lines. Make sure that all lines extend well beyond the boundaries of the buttonhole. Lines may be marked with a removable pen or pencil or thread traced.
Step 2: Cut a rectangle of fabric for the lips of the bound buttonhole. It needs to be 1" high by the length of the buttonhole, plus 1". The sample shown will be a 2" buttonhole, so my rectangle is 1" x 3".
Step 3: Mark and prepare the rectangle. Draw one line down the center of the rectangle longways (see photo above). Press the long side edges in to meet the center line. Draw one line down each half of the rectangle, centered on each flap, this should be 1/8" from each folded edge.
Step 4: Baste the rectangle to the marked fashion fabric, centering the rectangle's center line over the center line of the buttonhole.
Step 5: Using a very short stitch, stitch down each marked side of the flap, through all the layers, beginning and ending exactly on the end lines of the buttonhole. Pull threads to the wrong side and tie off. Press and remove basting.
Step 6: Cut rectangle in half down the center line. Be careful to cut only the rectangle, not the fashion fabric at this point.
Step 7: Turn buttonhole over to the wrong side. Cut down the center of the buttonhole, clipping to the corners at the ends, making triangles.
Step 8: Bring the lips of the buttonhole through to the wrong side and press. Baste the lips of the buttonhole together.
Step 9: Turn buttonhole right side facing up. Turn back fabric, exposing triangle and end of buttonhole lips. With a very short stitch length, stitch across the ends of the buttonhole and triangle. Repeat for other side. Press buttonhole well.
That's it - the buttonhole is complete. Most of the work here is the preparation and all the marking. Once that is complete, it really is only four short seams, two small bits of careful clipping and a little pressing and the buttonhole is complete. Find some scrap fabric and try a few - you can get really good results with this method.
Parting Shot: The Jacket. Here it is, I wore it out today and got a few compliments on it. I really like it - it is relaxed and has a vintage feel to it due to the design. I also like the little luxury touches like the bound buttonholes - just because I'm not working doesn't mean I can't have a little luxury, too.