Vogue Couturier #800, 1954
Let's start with the back of the pattern envelope before looking inside.
In the photo above, I'd like you to take note of two things. One, that "Skirt Stiffening" is needed for the skirt, which is separate and different from "Front Interfacing". We'll look at that again later in the instructions. Second, that 1 and 1/2 yards of 10" wide ribbon is needed for the "girdle" or decorative ribbon belt, shown on the envelope front in yellow worn with the white dress. Where would you find 10" wide ribbon? Anybody have any ideas? I'm lucky to find ribbon that is 2 1/2" to 3" wide where I live. Ribbon any wider is a rarity around here.From the instruction sheet you can see that there are not a lot of pieces to this dress. There are special pieces for the skirt stiffening, and a piece for pockets.
Since the sleeves are cut in one with the dress fronts, there is a need for an underarm gusset. There is not a separate piece for a gusset, but the fronts and backs have an area, which is reinforced, slashed and then each edge is sewn to the side fronts and backs, giving space in the underarm area and allowing the sleeve and side seam to be sewn in one seam.
As is common with many vintage patterns, the interfacing is not applied to the facing and then the interfaced facing is applied to the garment. The interfacing is applied to the dress, then the facing is stitched on after the bound buttonholes are made. Remember, too, that fusible interfacing wasn't available, so the interfacing would be sewn into the seams.
The skirt stiffening has two pattern pieces of its own and is assembled independently of the dress, leaving openings in the side seams for the pocket bags. The stiffening is sewn to the front interfacing and to the dress at the body darts and side seams. This is very similar to what I found in the green velvet dress. I'm assuming there was more stiffening in my green dress at one time because it looked like some had been ripped out. I can understand the need for such a product. Keeping those skirts standing out and looking full is hard to achieve with petticoats alone. The skirt itself must be stiffened too, so that it will stand out. It is similar to using an underlining to change the drape of a particular fabric.
As usual, there is the inside belt:
The stiffening is hemmed as a lining would be, after the fashion fabric is hemmed:
I am still working on the school wardrobe. I have four more pieces to go and I hope to start on another skirt this evening!Parting Shot: Sunshine. Don't you wish you could just take a nap in a square of sunshine?
13 comments:
Did I ever say? I love your presentations of those vintage patterns, they are very interesting.
I think I have seen wide ribbon once (around 20cm I guess) but this was on a trade fair for professionals only. And I don't remember who the producer was. Mokuba in Paris might have such a thing, but if it'll be expensive.
(But if you are interested I can look when I'm in Paris the next time (end of September). I'll make my regular round of fabric and notion stores anyhow. ;-) )
Great dress pattern. Excuse my ignorance but what, do you think would be used as "stiffening"? Lets say, back then, since now we have fusible, and a lot of other choices.
Ditto with Valerie. I was wondering what the stiffening would be made out of, seeing as it appears to be treated seperately.
Gorgeous pattern, I think I would make a fabric belt rather than try and find 10' ribbon, I've never seen it either.
My 2 cats fight over little sun spots like those!
Lovely pattern! Do you think attaching the interfacing to the dress rather than the facings gives a better result? I'm thinking it would as it is less likely to droop.
I think that Hyman Hendler(?) in NYC has ribbon that wide. Don't know if they do mail order.
Also, ribbon wasn't neccesaryily.... ribbon! It could have been a sash that was made, but because it was tied, they called it a ribbon! And stiffening, is just tolle or netting! I can still remember the "stiffening" that my mom and my grandma's put into some of my dress'es when I was a little girl! (And yes, I'm older than 30 something...) Let me tell you, you sure want to make sure that the pieces between you and the "stiffening" is covered! Cause man that stuff itches like crazy! Specially the netting! The difference between netting and tolle is that netting has the larger holes! And it's a lot cheaper too!
Wouldn't it be nice to live life like a cat for a day! People feed you, pet you and just love you. And you get to lay in the sun and "cat nap".
Thanks for sharing this, Summerset. It is very useful.
I learnt to draft such a sleeve at a pattern drafting course, but I have never used it and only seen it used a few times.
Summerset .- thanks for sharing. The dress is magnificent inside and out. I love the idea that it's a "robemanteau." greetings, Paco
Thanks Summerset,
That sleeve is very interesting!
I wonder what a "robemanteau" is.
I'm also wondering what would be used for the stiffening. My initial thought was netting, so I guess cogdilldg kind of confirmed this. And I thought our dog was unique in his ways!
Hi Summerset, I've bought superwide ribbon in the past for my store from Renaissance Ribbons.
http://www.renaissanceribbons.com/view.php?id=4559&cat=whatsnew
However, I think the comment above saying it means something else may be right. Also my mother's old dresses had tulle/net stiffening in them, sewn in layers to a taffeta underskirt. My grandmother said it took her forever to do the hems - by hand! on those huge full circle skirts
Neat idea, my contribution the waist band ribbon is typical as you say - purpose to keep the heavy skirt from pulling on the bodice - with the waist ribbon acting as a stay to carry the weight of the skirt and stiffening.
Also, many times the interfacing would be sewn to the fabric with a tailoring technique of v shaped basting type stitches. Very time intensive but provided/s great shaping. Technique is in one of Bobbie Carr's fine sewing videos.
In my recollection, one usually wore a full length straight slip underneath the dress so the stiffening did not touch the body.
Sashes/ribbons cut on the bias often and baby hem stitch edge.
Beautiful pattern and a very interesting one, construction wise! I love these reviews!
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