Inside the Envelope

Advance 9363

This post is for Paco who asked in the comments about the underarm gusset. I thought I'd share with you that portion of the pattern and how that single right hip pocket (shown below) is made, as these are interesting details. Neither of these details are often seen in today's patterns. I also found one other interesting detail that I'll share last.

The underarm gusset is seen often in tight fitting garments or in garments with kimono style sleeves that are cut in one with the bodice. These sleeves do not give the wearer a great range of motion without ripping out the seams under the arm. The gusset gives more space under the arm and allows for more motion. Some gussets are diamond shaped pieces of fabric that are inserted where the four seams under the arm intersect. Some patterns have a one piece gusset that is longer enough to also be a side panel for the bodice. This pattern is different in that the gusset is actually made of two pieces, a front and back.

Here are the instructions for the front, as you can see the gusset piece is inserted at the underarm area after reinforcing and slashing the fabric:

The back is constructed the same way, then the front and back are then joined in one long seam from the sleeve edge to the bottom of the bodice:

The hip pocket has a welt, yet is constructed similarly to a slant pocket. First the welt is made and basted to the right side of the skirt at the opening:

The pocket is then placed on top of the welt/skirt and stitched in place. The pocket is turned to the inside and pressed. The yoke and pocket piece (after stitching the dart) is stitched in place to form the pocket bag and yoke of the skirt:

This dress also features the bound buttonhole. What I really found interesting were the words you see below, "Instructions for making bound buttonholes are printed on separate tissue included with this pattern."

You know I had to find them and see what the instructions were. Here they are:

This is the same method I use and there is even a pattern piece for the patch and a pattern piece with guidelines for stitching. Very interesting and I'd never seen a separate piece of pattern tissue with the bound buttonhole instructions.

Q/A: Regarding REC, Elaray wanted to know, "Is this the first time you've done an art piece for your children? " No, this isn't. My daughter has an outfit called "Little Red Empress" which was made for her. Of course, now my son has to have an outfit, too. I do realize that they will grow out of the outfits, but they are keepsakes and the children can take them with them when they grow up and move away if they want to. She's been on the runway a few times in the outfit and I've won a few first places with it. One of the photos below was taken backstage at a show.

Parting Shots: Curious Kiwi. I picked up the yellow quilt from the quilter today, and Kiwi was very curious about where it had been and what the quilt smelled like. More on the quilt in future posts.