Corded Bound Buttonholes

This is the first of two tutorials I'll be posting this week concerning bound buttonholes. I previously did a tutorial on one technique to make bound buttonholes in November when I made the red trenchcoat. Today, I'll show you corded bound buttonholes, and later this week I'll show you how to finish the facing that goes on the back of the buttonhole.

There are two ways to make a corded bound buttonhole. One way is to make covered piping and use that to make the lips of the buttonhole. The other and much easier way is what I'm going to show you today. This method will work with any style of bound buttonhole, no matter what method you're used to using.

The buttonhole should be almost completed before adding the cording. The buttonhole below has already gone through steps 1 through 5 of the previous tutorial, or is finished up to the point right before stitching across the triangular ends to secure the ends of the buttonhole. If you're going to use this method, don't stitch across the ends yet!

You will need a large eye needle, like a tapestry or crewel needle, cording, and possibly a awl or stiletto. The cording can be mousetail or rattail cord or the filler cord used for piping. What I use is Cream & Sugar cotton yarn. It is about the same thickness at the filler cord for pre-made piping, and is easy to buy. Any Jo-ann's or Wal-mart sells it.

Cut a length of cording at least twice as long as the buttonhole and thread the needle.

From the wrong side, lift back one edge of the bound buttonhole and insert the stiletto into the fold of fabric that forms the actual lip of the buttonhole. Using the stiletto will help open up the space so that the needle will go through more easily. You can actually see where the needle will be going through the tunnel of fabric in the second picture as my stiletto is dark and the fabric is white.

Remove the stiletto and push the threaded needle through the same opening, all the way through to the other side. This might be a bit difficult - it can be done. Be very careful not to rip out the stitching actually holding the buttonhole together. If your cording choice to too thick, try another one. Do make a sample and practice!

Clip yarn off close to the edge of the patch and repeat cording the other lip of the buttonhole. Both sides have been corded in the photo below:

Turn the fabric right side up and fold one edge of the fabric back to reveal the triangular end of the button hole and the ends of the yarn. Stitch across the end of the buttonhole to secure the buttonhole and the yarn. The yarn may now be clipped close to the buttonhole to remove bulk, as shown with the side closest to the bottom of the photo. Repeat for the other side.

That's it! The corded bound buttonhole from the front:

Q/A: Thank you for all the compliments on the red suit! Nancy K wanted to know what the fabric is made of. It is shiny, but it isn't silk. It is a polyester/rayon blend of some sort.

Parting Shot: Guess! Here's tomorrow's Weekly Wardrobe item. I'd like you to take a guess at to which pattern I made this dress from. I'll give you a hint: it is not BWOF or Patrones.