What to do with the back or facings of bound buttonholes seems to be a topic that is little discussed. There are many good tutorials on the internet on how to make the buttonhole. Finishing the facing is very important, too. One blog reader asked about this topic, so I've decided to show you how they are done.
The are three basic ways that the facing is finshed:
Method 1: Slash the facing, turn under the edges and slipstitch the edges in place.
I don't use this method. I hesistate to cut into any fabric in a situation like this without staystitch or reinforcing in some way. I wouldn't want to put all the time into a garment that would have bound buttonholes to have that opening in the facing shred or unravel.Method 2: Similar to Method 1, but the opening is staystitched, then slashed and slipstitched in place.
This is much better as the staystitch will help to prevent unwanted raveling of the fabric. I don't use this method, either, because to me it seems odd to have an oval opening on the other side of a rectangular buttonhole. Sorry, but that's just a quirk of mine.Methods 1 and 2 do have an advantage in that the facing opening will be exactly where the buttonhole is with no extra measuring or guessing. Not so with Method 3, as you'll see in a moment.
Method 3: This is sometimes known as the patch method. It is also the most labor intensive of all three. For this method, the facing is marked with the exact position of the buttonhole. A piece of fabric is placed on the facing, right sides together and the two are stitched together with a very short stitch on the outline of the buttonhole. The rectangle is slashed, clipped, turned through the opening to the wrong side and pressed. The entire unit is then slipstitched in place over the buttonhole.
This is the method I use. It is not easy! You must make sure that the facing lines up perfectly with the buttonhole and that the opening you're making in the facing is the exact size of the buttonhole. I recommend marking for the buttonholes and for the facing openings at the same time - when you're tracing and cutting out the fabric before any sewing begins. Recheck positions after the buttonholes are made and the garment is assembled before making the facing openings.Here is the facing of my red trenchcoat and the finished bound buttonholes:
So why do I use Method 3 if it is harder? I like the way it looks and I like the satisfaction of getting everything lined up just right. It is a challenge for me, and I like challenges!Parting Shot: Elegance, 1967. I got the pattern from Mary, as a prize on her blog (everyone was a winner!). I think the right fabric choice would really important when making this pattern - I can imagine brocade, jacquard or something textured. Note that the dress has inseam pockets in the front princess seams!
13 comments:
Ummm, Simplicity is starting to recycle some of its vintage patterns. I just got S2958 and the dress in this pattern looks a lot like the dress in your vintage one. Of course the photo and fabric aren't as elaborate as the one portrayed in your pattern but with a little vision I could see it.
Thank you for this tutorial. Perfect time for my weekend of jacket finishing! I really like this method and it doesn't look too hard, just a little more time consuming. I figure if I've already spent several days constructing a jacket, why not put in this little extra time to get it perfect (well, maybe not perfect, but at least a little neater).
Carol
I agree with you totally about the bound buttonholes. I am sure your way is the "right" way. It certainly is in my book.I never could quite understand why an eliptical shape would mimic a rectangular one!
I am madly in love with the lining. that stuff is amazing!
Thanks for the buttonhole tutorial. I have been meaning to figure those out and your tips are very helpful.
Also, I just adore the red suit AND the dress with red accessories.
I am definately with you on method 3. If something is worth doing, it's worth doing right!
Great tutorials on bound buttonholes Summerset. Thanks.
And the pattern is so you.
Sigh. Maybe I'm not visually intelligent, but I really don't understand what this is supposed to look like on the finished product. Can you show the inside (the back) of these bound button holes on something you've already finished (like the red trench coat). Everyone always shows how nice the front looks, but I'm at a loss as to how the back looks. Or, if you've already posted that somewhere, could you direct me to it?
Summerset .- I agree with you, the method 3 is the most clean and safe, although difficult. I, I dare to practise for example when there is only one eyelet. my admiration for you and your good examples. the pattern vintage simply delicious. this if you have to do is ....... and very current in the line of contemporary clothing. of course, in brocade, red perhaps? ... greetings, Paco
Kristina - The picture shown of the red trench in this post is the back of the bound buttonholes, not the front. What you're seeing is the red front facing and then the brocade lining. When using method #3, the final product will look the same from both sides; the front (right side of the garment) looks the same as the back (lining or inside of the garment). Hope that helps.
Excellent tutorial and comparison between methods! I confess using method 1 but only if the facing is reinforced with interfacing. If that is not the case or if the fabric needs additional reinforcement, I usually use method 2. I've used method three once on a very bulky fabric with tendency to ravel. Normally I use the window method for the outside of the buttonhole but I like to shift between methods if the quality is the same (I like the challenge but also the diversity!)
Here I thought there was only one way to do bound buttonholes! The right way, of course, but I'm still a bit shocked that after all these years the other methods were unknown to me. Thanks for furthering my sewing education yet again.
Thank you for a very comprehensive tutorial - I shall "have a go" on my next jacket.
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