Tuesday, April 01, 2008

A Couple of Good Questions

In the past week, I've had some questions in the comments that I thought would make good posts, so today and tomorrow, I'll answer those. Today I'd like to answer a comment from Amy, from last week when I showed the red and white knit top from the SWAP, "Can you give some tips on fabric shopping online? . . . . How can I tell the difference between fabric that would make a cute top (like yours) vs. fabric that's really meant for a swimsuit.... or better for the trash bin?"

There's no fail-proof answer for this one, actually, but I'll give you some things I keep in mind when I shop for fabric online.
  • Check the return policy. If you don't like it for some reason, can you return it or will you have to keep it?
  • See if a swatch of the fabric can be purchased. Some retailers may not advertise that they sell swatches, but it doesn't hurt to ask, either. I always try to get swatches, especially for very costly projects.
  • Know your fabrics. This includes being familiar with various weaves, weights and fibers. You might actually have to buy some fabric samples or do an extensive look and feel field trip to a well-stocked fabric store. I know, if we had well-stocked stores, we wouldn't be buying online! Knits can be tricky as different retailers label them differently. I purchase by fiber content and how many ways it will stretch for the knits (two-way, four-way).
  • Keep in mind that monitor and photographic quality varies greatly and colors aren't always what they seem. If you need it to match perfectly, get a swatch.
  • Be prepared for surprises, good and bad. I've bought pieces that were supposed to be suit weight wool that ended up being coat weight. I've also bought a piece of shirting that looked like it had a matte, dull finish and was pleasantly surprised to find that the fabric had a beautiful sheen and silky feel.
  • Know your own skill and patience level. Buying a fussy fabric that you don't have to the patience to deal with (like chiffon or slippery knit!) is never a bargain in the end no matter how inexpensive it is per yard.
Now, specifically, as far as knits are concerned, there are many types and weights! Many of them are suitable for more than one application, such as dresses, tops and athletic wear. Do check the pattern you are using carefully for the type of knit you will need. Some are very specific as to two-way stretch, four-way stretch. Many websites are specific (at least Spandex House is) as to the fiber content and amount of stretch. If in doubt, buy a sample or swatch or contact the retailer. Most retailers are more than happy to answer all your questions regarding your fabric purchase. There is no harm in sending an email to find out if the fabric you intend to purchase is suitable for your project!

If anyone else has any tips, put them in the comments. I know some of you out there are big online fabric shoppers, and you must have some pearls of wisdom on this topic!

I've also been awarded the "Excellent Blog" award by Gwen:

Thank you very much! In turn, I'd like to nominate just a few other blogs, that truly are excellent an inspire me in many ways, not just in sewing:

Diary of a Sewing Fanatic
Couture et Tricot
Paco Peralta
SueB's Blog
My Secret Pocket
The Stitchery
Marji's Blog

Parting Shot: I had a student bring me a huge bag of patterns the other day, and she told me that they were "really old". I just smiled and commented to my husband later that "old" to her must be about somewhere around 1985. Sure enough, I was right. A great majority of the patterns were from the 1980's, but there were a few late 1960's and 1970's gems in the group. I will share some with you over the next week. First, Simplicity 8080, from 1969:

From the pattern envelope: Misses' three armhole jiffy front wrap-dress: The front wrap-dress has square neckline and collar. V. 1 has scalloped braid trim. V. 2 has contrasting collar and facings.

15 comments:

dawn said...

Thank you so much, Summerset! Although I have to wonder in what way *I* could be inspiring *you*!

My best tip for shopping online,especially for less familiar fabrics, would be to shop someplace with an identifiable person behind the scenes. Like Emma One sock or Gorgeous Things. That way you can simply email them and ask if a certain fabric is appropriate for the project you have in mind.

Everyday Sewist said...

I buy almost all my fabrics online. I avoid risk by limiting my purchases to a few retailers who are known for selling only the best quality. I have been happy with my purchases or have received very nice swatches from EmmaOneSock.com, CandlelightValleyFabrics.com,
SawyerBrook.com, MichaelsFabrics.com, and GorgeousFabrics.com. There are also other independent retailers who obviously know their stuff: FashionistaFabrics.com and MarcyTilton.com are two places I wouldn't hesitate to shop. As has been mentioned already, order swatches if you're not sure.

Carolyn (cmarie12) said...

First - thank you soooo much for the excellence nomination - coming from you it means so much to me!

Second - thank you for nominating my girl Marji! I think she is one of the unsung talents in sewing blogland!

Third - my online fabric shopping tip is to think outside the box and be willing to be adventurous! Sometimes no matter how careful you are, you just never know what will show up and what you might finally end up using it for...not everything that comes in wrong is wrong! If that makes sense! And can I add to the get to know your online retailer...it helps so much with online fabric purchasing!

And finally - I LOVE that Simplicity pattern. Gosh I remember making a few of those dresses in high school! Do you think you will make a version of it?

Liana said...

Great tips, and Cute Pattern! I recently made a 3-armhole apron. I think it was a McCalls pattern. How nice to get a bag of goodies!

Vicki said...

Congratulations! I am a fan of all the blogs you nominated and yours too!

Tamara said...

What a cute pattern! That is one of the few vintage patterns I have seen that I would be interested in making if I had the pattern.

Mary Beth said...

Uh, oh, ah, gee, uh, wow! I'm beyond words, astonished really, Summerset. Thank you. mumble ....

I think all the purchasing suggestions have been really good, esp calling the sellers with questions or sending swatches with a request for sourcing.

But mistakes will.be.made! I'm still trying to forgive myself for the early ones and yet the mistakes are still in the stash (hopeless 'bout that) and most can be traced to coop purchases through early yahoo groups. Live and Learn!

I have really appreciated Julie Parker's Fabric Reference Series: All About Silk; All About Cotton; and All About Wool. It was a huge expense for me at the time but worth it! They are available from RainCityPublishing.com - better yet, they have 10% off right now & free shipping thru May 31, '08, every little bit helps, right? Some libraries might have or be able to get them, too.

I also study the descriptions of fabric used by design legends, vintage and modern alike. Those have been my best clues.

Well, I'm going back to reading this blog now, one of my favorite sources of inspiration!

Amy said...

Thank you for your detailed and helpful answer! I guess my biggest problem right now is that I haven't purchased enough fabric to really have a "mapping" in my head that would help me go from the fabric description to imagining what it will feel like. One thing I find extraordinarily helpful is the way they always give a few pattern suggestions over at gorgeousfabrics.com.

I guess I just need to take the plunge and start trying some things!

Thanks again!
Amy

paco peralta said...

Oh! Summerset .- congratulations on the award. You deserve it. It is a great honour that you have thought about me, thank you, thank you. In terms of online purchase, I only buy once a fabric of silk fabric in Front-Line. What I recommend, their treatment is excellent and the quality of its fabrics is great. A big hug for you to enjoy your prize. Greetings. Paco

Marji said...

Summerset, Thank You. I'm honored to be included in that group, and reiterate Dawn's comment, "I inspire you??" Again, thank you.
And I totally concur with your advice "know your fabric, and even still, be willing to accept that not everything is going to be what you thought".
In addition to the online choices already mentioned, I would like to introduce your readership to Anjoorian Silks. Judy, at Anjoorian, is incredibly helpful, AND she'll also be straight upfront in telling you if she doesn't think she can supply what you're asking.

Lori said...

My advice for shopping on line is to be wary of the bargain basement fabrics and be prepared to use them as a muslin if they're not what you expect. Sometimes you do get a really great deal but sometimes the $1/yard knit has poor recovery or the polyester fabric has an icky finish. There's a reason it's selling for so cheap. As far as other fabrics, I do what the others do and buy from online stores with good reputations and return policies.

I'm also trying a new approach to online buying because my stash is so large. I'm AVOIDING the sales. It's too easy to be tempted to buy it because it's on sale. I might wait for a fabric I'm eyeing to be on sale and then buy it but if I want a fabric for a particular project and it's not regularly carried, then I go ahead and buy it.

Suzy said...

Oh goodness! I remember wearing the children's version of that dress. I think it was the first pattern I ever made without help.

No collar; stretch binding around all the edges, so no facings either. Gee, haven't seen that type of binding in ages.

Thanks for the trip down memory lane.

Gwen said...

Summerset, I'm so glad you accepted the award. :)
I am truly blown away by your skill and beautiful work and I promise to do a better job keeping in touch through comments in the future.
--Gwen

Tany said...

I have yet to try buying fabric online! That's a service that is not available here in Portugal (not that I know about) and custom fees for packages outside the EU can get very expensive, (they don't check every package though, I think they make random checks). I've been perusing some German fabric online shops but I gave up when I found out about the posting cost!

Congratulations on being nominated, it's well deserved (your blog is one of my favorites and one that I visit as often as I can)! And THANK YOU so much for nominating me!!

Ana Carina said...

Hi Summerset!
You have been nominated with one more "Excellent Blog Award".
I usualy come here to see your clothes. They are a beautiful garments!
I love the petticoats!
**