Monday, March 10, 2008

SWAP Extra

Inseam Pocket and Invisible Zipper Combo


Yesterday I showed you the white circle skirt with the inseam pocket and invisible zipper in the left side seam. Today I'll show you how that is made.

This can be done on any side seam with inseam pockets. There are no special pattern pieces or tools.

Step 1: Finish edges of side seam and pocket bags. Place one pocket bag on front of garment, aligning the pattern markings for pocket placement. Using a marking pen or pencil, draw two short lines starting at the edge of the fabric at the pocket opening markings and inward for 5/8". Draw another line parallel to the edge of the fabric on the seam line connecting the two shorter lines. You should have the piece marked as shown below:

Step 2: Stitch on the marked line, starting at one edge, pivoting at the corner, stitching down the seam line, pivoting at the second corner and ending at the fabric edge.

Step 3: Clip into the corners, turn the pocket bag to the wrong side and press. You will now have the finished front edge of the pocket.

Step 4: Finish making the pocket bag by turn the front so that the wrong side is up and pinning the other pocket bag in place. Stitch curved edges of pocket bag together with the front out of the way so as not to catch the front in the stitching. The second photo shows what the front will look like at the end of this step. You now have a finished pocket, and an edge to which you can attach an invisible zipper. Notice also that the pocket is not attached to the back of the garment in any way, as a regular inseam pocket might be.

Step 5: Insert the invisible zipper in the usual way, making sure not to stitch through the pocket opening. You can see that I've basted the one side of the zipper in place in the photo below. Basting is extremely important in this case so that you can get the zipper right on the seam line at the pocket opening without catching the opening.

Step 6: Enjoy! That's all there is to it.


Parting Shot: Replacement pattern. I got the replacement pattern, now I just need to some major grading up!

7 comments:

LauraLo said...

Oh, that's a great tutorial, Summerset, thank you very much for it!

paco peralta said...

Thanks for the latter two post Summerset. I use this technique to tuxedo pants bearing an edging along the leg and truth that is a very clean and very effective. Thanks and greetings from Barcelona. Paco

Tany said...

Fabulous! I'm having this tuturial bookmarked for future use!

Marji said...

I'm loving how your SWAP is coming together. Great pocket zipper tutorial too.

Stefanie Wolf said...

Awesome and easy to follow tutorial. Thanks!

M. Inez said...

Thanks so much for this tutorial! I LOVE sewing pockets into my dresses/skirts. This weekend I had to forego adding pockets into a sundress because I couldn't work out the mechanics in my mind and I was in a rush. I knew the pocket had to be fully assembled to either the front or the back but I just couldn't see it to the end. This tutorial made it so plain. Thank you sew much. I'm going to rip those side seams and add my pockets!

Anonymous said...

Thank you for your sharing. This is one of the best tutorial I've learned, it is so helful and easy. I'll use it for my new skirt.