Stitching the Seams
I'm still working on the beading, and hope to get the other front done today. I can then start some of the other construction while beading the lace on the sleeves. In the meanwhile, let's take a look at a few tips for stitching velvet.
There are several ways to prepare velvet seams for stitching. For most velvets, double basting is a good idea. I learned this tip through a comment when I was working on Midnight Garden, by NancyK. [Editor's Note: Apologies to NancyK, during the drafting stage I meant to go back and give credit for the tip, got distracted and had to come back later to add your name!] Basically, you baste both layers together, and then baste a second time, filing in the spaces that didn't get basted the first time with stitches. This works well with slippery velvets. The photo below is from Midnight Garden, and you can see the two different colors of thread for each set of basting stitches.
To actually stitch the seams, a few changes to the machine set up can help. Of course, always make a test sample. A walking foot will help feed the top fabric evenly, as the feed dogs take care of the bottom fabric. Reducing the presser foot tension is also helpful, if this is an option on your machine. You can also lengthen your stitch length and some authors also recommend a very narrow zigzag stitch, as if you were stitching a knit fabric. I chose to lengthen my stitch to 3mm. I also stitch with the nap, rather than against it.
Once the seams are stitched and pressed, they will need to be trimmed and graded if there are any extra layers. In this case, I've got an underlining, so I graded the seam allowances (sorry for the dark photo, but it is hard to photograph layers of white fabric):
For this project, I am catch stitching all the seam allowances to the underlining only. It is an extra step, but will keep things from shifting around the inside.
Tomorrow I'll show you the beading!Parting Shot: Kiwi! She's somehow found a fuchsia pom-pom to play with. She's like a child, and will play with anything that she can push around.
7 comments:
Hi, Summerset,
For the velvet basting, did you baste it directly on the stitching line? Or did you move it in (or out) slightly?
I can't remember where I read this (gosh, was it on this site?), but I remember seeing someone baste once and then whipstitch the fabric edges before seaming. Do you see advantages of 1 technique over the other?
The 1 time I worked with stretch velvet (poly/lycra), I "cheated" and used washable basting tape to hold everything together before seaming. I peeled it off after the seam was complete, but I imagine this is not a good idea for fancy fabric.
I have used double basting too. But sometimes I think pins are better. Maybe b/c they are stiff and don't yield? Sometimes I've even done basting and pins...velvet can really be a PITA..especially combined with satin.
Your entries on this jacket are becoming a great reference for working with velvet. Thanks.
I was about to say the exact same thing as Sigrid. Thank you for doing this Summerset!
Cute picture of Kiwi :)
I've used the double basted method on the most difficult kinds of velvet (there are some velvets that shift more than the others; it depends on their composition and fiber length on the pile side, I believe). I've also used pins (for example, on the leopard coat) and they work fine if the velvet is not the "difficult" type. Do you remember the Burda International black velvet suit? I was dealing with 100%cotton velvet, and it was hard to get the stitching right, even with double basting.
Tany - Yes, I remember! It was beautiful. I didn't realize how much work went into it. I know I would have kept it, too, after putting all that work into it.
Thanks for sharing the double-basting technique again. As well as the catch-stitching to the underlining...all things I need to remember when I next tackle a velvet project!
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