Still Tweaking the Fit
Thank you all for your responses to my plea for help with fitting this trench coat. You've given me a lot to think about and Barbara in particular wrote a detailed comment on some ways to fix some of the issues.
To start with, I finally got the trench coat graded down to the proper size - a 38 in Patrones' size system. This is vast improvement in terms of the width of the sleeves and the shoulders. The back is better, too, but there are still some lingering weird wrinkles to deal with. Here's the front, not terribly well pressed:
Then there's the back. It doesn't look too bad at the top of the shoulder, but headed down towards the underarms there are the wrinkles that are bothering me. I've circled them in the second picture.
I assume this fabric is extra and doesn't need to be there? I have tried take a tuck from shoulder to hem, but that makes the top of the shoulder too tight and accentuates the wrinkles. I think I'm going to try Barbara's method unless there's another better solution. I also tried the trench with a belt, which is how I'd wear it and it doesn't look *too bad*, but I have a nagging feeling it's not quite right.
So, any suggestions? I have tried the jacket in a size 36 (sorry no pictures) and it was too small; the shoulder seam was too short and it was too high under the arms and uncomfortable to wear. The size 38 version is comfortable and easy to put on. That, said I don't want to take too much out of the back width, or else the coat won't flare properly, but at the same time I want it to fit right and look good, too. I also don't want to cut into the fabric and make a mistake that I can't fix!Q/A: After seeing the snowflake dress in the Parting Shot, Jeannie W. wanted to know what pattern I used for it. Jeannie, I don't remember. I made it about 7 or 8 years ago. I do know that it was a very basic dress with a round neck, long sleeves and full skirt. I added the overlay and attached sash. I think that you should be able to easily modify any basic pattern to achieve the same look. Here are few to try: McCall's 8675, New Look 6767 or 6771 or Butterick 3672.
Parting Shot: First Day of School Dress. I made this one for my daughter for her first day of school. The piping and flower buttons added just the right touch for my little girl.
8 comments:
Summerset, your wrinkle appears to be shoulder slope related. You can see the same puddle of fabric in the front, near the bustline.
Try pinching the fabric at the shoulder point and see if the wrinkle disappears; if so, you can adjust the angle of the shoulder seam, or add a pad, whichever you prefer.
Shannon
I agree with Shannon as the right shoulder is worse and that is the lower shoulder. I think this will solve all your problems. you just now need it to get to hang evenly from the shoulders.
It looks like you need to add some shoulder pads. Your shoulders appear to be sloping and perhaps the right one is more sloped, in which case would add a little more padding to this side. If you don't want to add shoulder pads, then do a sloped shoulder adjustment, which also means lowering the underarm the same amount that you lower the shoulder. However, since your shoulders appear to be somewhat uneven, the shoulder pads work better to make your shoulders appear even at the same time you solve the wrinkle problem If you do not have enough room in the underarm, sew it lower.
Summerset,
I have this problem with t-shirts (where I definitely don't want to use shoulder pads) and I have used the shoulder adjustment as mentioned above with very good results. I know you wanted to avoid shoulder pads, but this coat seems a bit too tailored to go without. I know you're afraid to appear like you are revisiting the 80's but I don't really think you will. Try a thicker shoulder pad and if you just hate it, use a smaller pad and do the shoulder adjustment. I like Nancy Zieman's method from Fitting Finesse, but another method you're comfortable will work.
Micki (a long time lurker, first time to comment!)
You seem to have received good advice already! I'm sure you'll make this work.
Love the little dress. :)
You are getting there with the fit of the trench. Don't give up now! :)
Seeing your daughter's dresses makes me wish I had some of my daughter's dresses I made for her when she was little. (she's 13 now) Why didn't I save them? I'm enjoying seeing yours though.
I think the fit improved considerably with the size 38! From the pictures I would say a sloped shoulder adjustment would solve your problem (cut a rectangle around the armhole, slide it down a little and true the outlines), since it will lower the armholes as it adjusts the shoulder slope. I also see you have a slight different shoulder and this can be solved with some padding on the lower shoulder. I have a few pictures of the back view of me wearing the trench (I didn't post them because I didn't like them and I didn't think they were relevant but I can email them to you. I think the trench fits me more tightly on the shoulders (I don't think I'll be able to wear a jacket underneath but that's ok for the kind of weather we get around here during Fall and even Winter). Remember also that there will be a cape and the several layers of fabric will make some difference. The taffeta doesn't drape as the muslin you're using and the shoulders/armhole area will be more structured. I would make a small sloped shoulder adjustment though, and also correct the different slope on one side. Good luck, you’re almost there!
I se eyou have gotten plenty of advice on the shoulder, but if I were working with this, I would say that the problem would be better resolved by altering the shape of the armscye, and by association, sleeve cap. If you have a similar coat pattern that fits you well, compare the shapes of the armscye, and see if yours is drastically different.
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