The Red Trench - Part Four

Thank You, Thank You, Thank You!

Thanks to all of you, I think I have finally fixed the trench's shoulder problems. Since the muslin in now a 38 and the rest of it fits reasonably well, the consensus was that I needed to adjust the shoulder slope. This would help to remove some of the excess fabric from around the armhole, especially the back.

I ended up doing just that and of course, had to lower the armhole by the same amount, too. This procedure took care of most of the wrinkles, but left me with a few smaller ones. To fix that, I scooped out just a bit of the fabric of the back from about half way down the armhole to the underarm. The picture below isn't the best, as my photographer this morning wasn't having a good day, and we couldn't get a good photo. I ended up having to do the job myself.

I am still debating the use of shoulder pads. It is obvious I've got a shoulder slope issue and to get the right look for the trench, I'll probably need them (thin ones!). Upon the recommendation of Tany, I am going to wait until I actually make the trench and see how it looks with the actual fabric, the cape and a lining.

My next task is to finish regrading the pattern and translate all these changes to the pattern pieces. I'll try to show you those in the next few days when I have a chance to work on it. I feel like I've crossed a major hurdle here - the bound buttonholes I'm planning will be easier for me! Fitting isn't my strongest skill. I have more experience with formal wear, which for the most part hasn't included sleeves!

To that end, what are your favorite books for fitting? Christmas is coming up and I've got relatives wanting to know what to buy me for gifts. I think a book (or 2 or 3 or 4) on fitting might be a useful addition to my library in addition to whatever fit help is contained in the books I already own.

Parting Shots: From the archives, another Christmas dress. This one I made when my daughter was 3. This one was made of iridescent green taffeta with a plaid taffeta lining. The neck and sleeves were also bound with the plaid taffeta. The dress bodice had many pleats to shape the upper portion, which you can see better in the second picture. At the end of each pleat on the front, I sewed a red and gold button.