Midnight Garden - Jacket - Part XVII

The Appliqué Flowers and Leaves (and Other Plans)

Earlier this week you saw both bad and good examples of the appliqué flowers. Remember these?

The silk is in the mail and I should have it by the middle of next week. Once I get it, I'll need to make it into the vines, leaves and flowers so that I can get going on the hand appliqué. How exactly do I prepare the pieces? I use a common appliqué method using freezer paper templates. Here's how:

First, I make templates for each motif; we had a whole series of posts on the various templates for this project. It is important to note that these templates are made of freezer paper (the kind you'd wrap meat, etc. in to put in the freezer).

Because freezer paper has both a dull and shiny side, it is ideal for this type of appliqué. The dull side is perfect for drawing motifs and the shiny side will adhere to fabric when ironed on. It also can be peeled off the fabric without leaving residue and can be reused many times. So, for the next step, I iron the template onto the wrong side of the fabric.

I then cut around each motif, leaving about 1/4" extra fabric around the template.

It is then time to prepare the edges to be turned under, along the edges of the template. All inward curves are clipped, as are points. At this point, I use a very tiny dot of Fray Check when I clip into points so that they don't fray. To deal with outward curves, I place running stitches around the curve so that it can be gathered into a curved shape. All the leaves have running stitches, as well as all the petals on all the flowers. This is why I was a little disappointed when I found out I'd have to remake all the leaves and the few flowers I had already made. This can be a lot of easy, but time consuming work!

The gathering stitches are then pulled up tight so that the piece curves properly.

Lastly, the piece is ironed smooth. I usually will use spray starch at this point so that the fabric will stay in place and be a little bit stiffer for the actual appliqué process. In the photo below, you can see that I'm using my mini-iron to iron the edges flat. It is easier to use since it is lightweight and has a smaller point than my regular iron.

This gathering/tightening/ironing process is repeated all around the flower until all the petals are done. I've only done three in the photo below, but you get the idea.

From the right side, the piece looks like this:

I got one section of the skirt back quilted last night! Correction, very, very early this morning. It was 12:30a.m. when I got done. For some strange reason I was really mentally "on" and just worked away at it until it was done. I also completely percolated two new projects for 2008. One is a new gown project that will be part of the MQX vest challenge for the Spring 2008 show. I know exactly what it will look like - colors, quilting, embellishment everything! I already have the motif template and one of the patterns too, and the other I'm watching on eBay. The other is a project for a specific fabric challenge. The object it to use a specific fabric in a creative way - I know exactly what that one will look like, too and I have the pattern for it too. You do know that these are all vintage, right? Right. No surprise there.

Next week I hope to get the quilted side of the skirt done and get the silk jacket and skirt cut out and started. I can also cut more synthetic flowers, too, I'm going to need a lot of those!

I have to say you all are very perceptive readers! I mention things in passing and it's amazing what you pick up on. Isabelle noticed that the blue top I was wearing yesterday was the BWOF I made a while back, and she picked up on the fact that I am doing the V & A dress. In fact, I just bought the fabric today - blue/black irridescent taffeta 60"wide, on clearance, $2.00 per yard plus a 10% discount off of that. Now, I just need to find about 20 yards of 4" wide white lace. I'm watching some on eBay, so I'll probably get that in house soon. Carolyn zeroed in on the word "SWAP", so I have to give you a teaser for that, too! This one is for me. It will a transitional wardrobe from winter to spring - with the weather we have around here, I could probably wear the pieces into June. It also has to do with one my latest vintage pattern treasures.

Parting Shot: Today was my quilt guild's annual show. I went to the show and volunteered in the cafe, helping serve lunches/snacks. I also got to see the show and check out the guild sale table. Look what I bought for $1.00 each - more Threads back issues! The one on top includes an article by Claire Schaeffer on making the Chanel skirt and an article on using a tambour needle (something I've been wanting to try!). The other issues have articles on Issaye Miyake and Jacques Fath (can't wait to read that one!) and all sorts of other interesting stuff.